English professor/shaper Charles Mencel joins us to edify on the Jersey beach badge, help illuminate the Shore’s deep history beyond the stereotypes, herald their music culture’s influence on surfing, and chart the travails of scaling a local board building business while raising five daughters and educating America's young adults. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s show filmmaker Jason Baffa explains the unexpected perils of getting your dream job, the importance of finding your niche within a niche, how collaboration is a pathway to success, and why the future of surf films is a live viewing experience. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Quietly and immeasurably influencing the surf world, Jon Roseman's stewardship of Cloudbreak has been cosigned by Fijian tribal leaders and pro surfers alike. Today he shares stories from 30 years of swells, why his best surfing is still ahead of him, and how he hopes to convert his experiences and a newly earned MBA from Yale into sustainable success for Tavarua's future. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s show Dave Nelson reflects on the gift that was skating while growing up in the epicenter of tech, how one early gift from mom would dictate his life’s passion, the magic of living on Reunion Island in the early 90s, and how surf photography led him from darkness and allowed him to service something far greater than his own pursuits. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s show Californian Mark Sausen explains how he landed on Kauai in 1970, why humility is a gateway to universal acceptance, the biggest concerns with the tech autocrat invasion on island, why it takes 20 years to get Hanalei dialed, and how to surf well into your 60s. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today's show Anastasia Ashley recounts lessons learned as a haole grom on the North Shore, winning a Pipe event at age 23, embracing surf's sex appeal to build a business, turning down a six-figure paycheck from Playboy, why "professional" surfing eroded the joy, and how she's revitalized her passion. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s show Chris Christenson recounts the time Tiger Woods got him disqualified from a golf tournament, why Dick Brewer invested in him, how Clark Foam’s closure was the best thing that ever happened, and discusses going to war with a corporate behemoth and inadvertently becoming an environmental activist in the process. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Nainoa is back to explain why having a focused leader is the secret to building magic boards, how learning history enriches both work and play, why it’s a bad idea to fake it until you make it, and why sucking only a little grants you access to powerful teachers. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s show laminator Nainoa Speier shares how his personal journey to discover his family’s origins connected him to a network of SoCal surf icons, how teenaged vandalizing informed his future resin works, and why overseas surfboard manufacturing erodes the bedrock of surf culture. Enjoy!  Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Kauai waterman Terry Chung joins us to talk about his recent trip to foil Nazare with Laird, raising well-adjusted children on Kauai, his journey through board building, the evolution of the surf foil, and how to sustain big wave wipeouts at the age of 65. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Denver native and rock crawling enthusiast, Jeff McCallum joins us to detail the exact qualitative difference between domestic and imported surfboards, explain how the evolution of surfboard design can be seen in a Skip Frye rail, reveal the hypocrisy of “sustainability”, and illustrate how foil distinguishes master shapers from everyone else. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

The fourth generation San Diegan writer & editor joins us to discuss failing to “de-Barney-fy” longboarding, his private correspondence with Miki Dora, his ongoing love affair with Cuba, and how a life of avowed poverty yielded an endlessly rich lifestyle. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Devon Howard returns to reflect on having a cool mom, inadvertently becoming a surfboard designer, the consequence of spraying his wife in the face, the dangers on the other side of success, and what Ancient Greece has taught him about style. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

In today’s show Captain Liz Clark details the childhood experience that empowered her to solo sail the Pacific for a decade, the most terrifying moment at sea, the dietary shift that disappeared her chronic illness, and what remote civilizations taught her about humanity. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

The land artist and Outstanding In The Field founder joins to explain why being caught inside is the pinnacle of surfing, how his mother’s language of math is encoded in his artwork, dance as ultimate therapy, and how the difference between failure and success is an illusion of perspective. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Craftsman Josh Martin joins us to discuss inventing the Shark Board, why people morph into looking like their dog, how ancient materials may be the future of board building, constructing a camper out of surfboard material, and making a living as an Instagram Influencer. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Jersey native Sam Hammer joins us to discuss how losing in contests led to a pro surf career, how seeds of relationships can birth enduring paychecks, how cold water has been his gateway to longevity, and the power of under-exertion. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

The Australian Surfing Hall of Famer joins us to discuss how riding a wooden fence picket led to a surfboard revolution, how cosmic design rights all injustice, why you’re riding the wrong fins, and the creative growth that is unlocked by killing the ego. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Mr. Sunset opens up about the anxieties of wartime during the Vietnam draft, eating a tablecloth (literally) to earn the license for Quiksilver, the value of ignorance, earning and losing a small fortune, conquering a 30 year substance addiction, and positioning himself to surf into 100 years of age. Enjoy! (Originally recorded in March 2020) Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Maui laminator Nic Timpone joins us to discuss the weight and privilege of continuing a five decade legacy of board building, how incremental improvements in sustainable materials net meaningful change, the fallacy of Instagram virality, and why he’ll be ditching his board henceforth. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Professional surfer, author, ecofeminist, mother, Lauren Hill joins us to discuss how a commitment to curiosity has resulted in an unlikely surf career, an even less likely life as a farmer, and the cosmic premonition that inspired her to move across the world in a quest to stay centered. Enjoy! (Originally aired September 2020) Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Pro surfer turned shaper, Shane Stoneman discusses the immeasurable influence environment plays in one’s work and well-being, the restorative virtues of painting, music as a conduit to connect with his children, and how to mitigate the physical trauma of shaping surfboards. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Patrick Trefz joins us to discuss how primary cooking lessons from his mother and a missive of exploration from his father led to 30+ years of travel, a tenure at Surfer Magazine, analysis of his friends through documentary, and the idea that food might leave the most indelible imprint of a culture. It’s all chronicled in his latest book, Ode To Travel and in today’s conversation. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

In our final installment, AJW reminds us why it’s often preferably to not have a plan, how fasting for 10 days led to him catching the wave of his life at Peahi and a broken heart led him to a nude hot spring in the mountains of Japan, and how accepting a job at gunpoint evolved into a flourishing business relationship. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Adam Warden shares the early lesson from his father that gave him the tools to travel the world, how simply showing up nurtures opportunity, the benefit of being willing to take a punch, why irrepressibly moxie trumps talent, and the value of not knowing. Part one of two! Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Retired Marine Combat Photographer Clint Runyon shares how he discovered surfing while stationed on Camp Pendleton (Trestles adjacent), how an economic crunch led him to shaping, building out a surfboard “factory” on deployment, and details the journey to discover the true value of a surfboard. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

In today’s episode Superwolf explains his journey from South Beach Miami’s disco scene, to Southern California’s surfboard factories, how Wavestorm legally plagiarized his resin colorwork, and reveals his alternate life as an underground LA DJ. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Hank Warner returns to share the moment that inspired him to become a father, detail the dwindling profit margin of surfboards, recount the greatest surfing he’s ever witnessed, and explain why he’s opts to never retire. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

San Diego native, apprentice to board building pioneers worldwide, Godfather to pro surfers, 57 years of shaping, 30,000 boards deep, Hank Warner shares tales from a life immersed in foam dust, brethren, and the sea. Part 1 of 2. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Chris Ruddy recounts his teenaged voyage from Hawaii to San Diego, the gift of access and opportunity given to him by Joe Roper, regifting it to Marcio Zouzi, how corporate manufacturing has replaced pioneering board builders, and how moving inland solves an economic puzzle and unlocks a tenfold opportunity. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Matt Parker is partnered with Coco Ho on a new surfboard label, XOCoco, reimagining surfboard design for the female athlete. We're giving away an XOCoco Halcyon model on March 1st. Today Parker explains the project, the board, and why you should reconsider what you know about board design. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Iconic Queensland shaper Dick Van Straalen shares his origin story and details how living with dyslexia has informed his surfing and surfboard building. He discusses helpful treatment strategies and explains how his acute mindset has empowered him to pioneer material usage and design theory for the past 60 years. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Laminations San Diego sander Alex Banyay details the inner workings of the most revered surfboard factories, quantifies the human costs of outsourced manufacturing, explains why preserving history requires hiring surfer-labor, and reveals which shaper is responsible for the greatest innovations in modern surfing. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Westlife’s Kian Egan joins us to discuss his teenaged, rapid rise to pop music stardom, how discovering surfing allowed him reconnect with his core values, why taking time off stimulates growth, and how a once boy-band is still expanding their popularity and depth into their man-band years. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

In today’s episode filmmaker Darieus Legg extolls the virtues and perils of being raised on a sailboat, explains how valuing external validation is a zero sum game, recounts why creative expression can buoy depression, and shares how his simply pursuit to tell the story of a used surfboard unraveled his life’s calling. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

We want to gift you a surfboard. Ryan Lynch is here to help. A thought leader in surfboard sustainability, the former Tesla engineer has focused his efforts on eliminating resin from surfboard production and designing high-performance, long lasting surfboards using regenerative construction materials without sacrificing one iota of performance and design, all whilst enhancing the beauty fo the board. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

In today’s show Eden Saul joins us to explain why the mat is the most dynamic surf craft, how he planted Dead Kooks seeds globally for free while gleaning knowledge from the best builders, how increasing production decreased his business growth, and why he’s committed to purchasing other shaper’s surfboards. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

In an apple orchard, on an island thirty miles north of Seattle, eight years removed from his last surf is where I found Drew Kampion. Author of six books, countless surf articles, and perhaps the main person responsible for surfing’s mischievous, irreverent presentation, Kampion reflects on his early years at Surfer, analyzes current surf media, and tells about the first time he got John Severson high. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Era defining filmmaker Kai Neville joins us to discuss why the visual style he is known for is not his own, how Bruce Irons is to blame for the best clip he’s ever missed, and how independent film helps foster the most creative and progressive expressions of surfing. Enjoy!  Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Genre defining pro freesurfer of the 90s, Margo, joins us to discuss ushering pro surfing from cottage to corporate, humility gleaned while working as a baggage handler, how a passion for bird watching led to his greatest work, and what sparked the revival in his surf career at age 50. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Surfer, writer, board builder, Christian Beamish joins to discuss surf adventuring through the hospices of the Navy, why the Simmons/Curren Keel might unlock new big wave paddle potential, lessons learned adrift on a self-built 27 foot sail boat, and why perspective is hard earned through life experience. Enjoy! Intro Music: Bill Callahan, 747 Outro Music: Bill Callahan, My Friend Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

After a year on the 35’ sailboat “Calypte”, Torren Martyn returns to discuss how his grandmother’s adventures 60 years ago led to this journey, the pitfalls and virtues of learning to sail while at sea, living with snakes onboard, and how the voyage was the perfect preparation for parenthood. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Just a note, during Thanksgiving week here in the US, to express my deepest gratitude for giving me the opportunity to do this work. Happy Thanksgiving! Music: Bonnie Raitt, Thank You Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

After 40 years touring and drumming for one of the biggest punk bands on the planet, Smelly joins us to discuss his transition into surfboard shaping and how the intensity of youth can that ignite a life's journey, the camaraderie of his bandmates helped him kick heroin, showing kindness to one's self amplifies recovery, and why all of his success can be attributed to a single drum beat. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Community activist Eddy Garcia joins us to discuss his efforts to re-house victims of Lahaina’s fires, how developers have already taken advantage of displaced families, the perils of disaster capitalism, the necessity to reduce reliance on tourism, and the inherent virtues of self-sufficiency. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Adroit craftsmen Bill Stewart returns to discuss the elusive paradox of Gordon Clark, the stately humility of Phil Edwards, the effortless earnestness of Jimmy Buffett, and how they each bolstered and buoyed him through his successes and losses over the years. Part of two of two. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Jovial raconteur Bill Stewart joins us to weave his tale from barefoot skiing in Kentucky, to fudge-making for Carnies in Michigan, to Shanghai'ing a teen to California in search of surf, to becoming one of surfing's preeminent board builders, along with the fortunes and friends earned and lost along the way. Enjoy this, the first of a two part series. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Era defining pioneer of the shortboard revolution, writer, World Champ, Nat Young joins us to discuss abandoning his animal aggression, reveals his favorite modern shapers, shares stories of Tom Blake & Miki Dora, and illuminates some of his greatest lessons learned and shared in his latest book, “Church Of The Open Sky”. Enjoy! Intro Music: I Know You Rider, The National and Bob Weir Outro Music: I Really Need Love, The Bees Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Surfing's preeminent historian returns so that David can attempt to write Warshaw's EOS entry. Herein Warshaw recounts the first time being punched in the face, donning Edward Norton's wetsuit, analyzes which prejudice is unjustly credited to surf history, and explains how a recent life altering diagnosis changed his perspective on this relationship with surfing. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Honoree of this weekend's Icons of Foam Tribute, Bing Copeland started Bing Surfboards in 1959. After sharing his first wave with Greg Noll and under the tutelage of Dale Velzy, Bing became one of the largest board builders of the 60s. In today’s episode Bing discusses his origin story, the value of delegation, transitioning the Bing legacy, and the incident that caused him to quitting surfing. Enjoy! (Link to Episode 190 with Matt Calvani) Intro Music: Bob Dylan, Mississippi Segue Music: Bob Callahan, 747 Outro Music: Glen Campbell, Sweet Fantasy Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

2x Icons of Foam winner Roger Hinds joins us again to discuss how moving out at age 14 cultivated the work ethic to yield 50 years of board building, the virtues of taking advice from people with less experience, the paradise and peril of Hawaii in the early 70s, and why you should be riding an 8' shortboard. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Marine Biologist, freediver, surfer, Brinkley Davies joins us to discuss harnessing the power of social media to activate people's compassion for animals, why the benefits inherent in freediving help guide her environmental charity work, how a fateful incident with a kangaroo led to her mothering a joey, and how to mitigate burnout by not surfing. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Pro surfer, second generation board builder, Greenough acolyte and EPS advocate, Ellis Ericson joins us to discuss the inherent limitations of molded surfboard blanks, feeling foreign in his hometown of Byron, how distancing daily life from technology has propelled his greatest strides forward, and how to induce zen through the hum of a planer. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Maui's Joshua Weisfeld shares the harrowing story of losing his home and factory while narrowly escaping the fires, gives insight into the rich board building community that existed in Lahaina, surveys the diaspora, and attempts to develop a blueprint for steps towards rebuilding. Enjoy. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Handmade, custom tailored, wetsuit designer Shane Jones joins us to discuss how youthful angst can be a catalyst to pursue your passion, why experiencing adversity should stimulate motivation, how it's never too late to radically redesign your life, and how he collected 8,000 square feet of goods for Lahaina's families in need. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Surfing's preeminent funny man joins us to chat about the importance of making risqué jokes in today's cancel culture, why surf culture is ripe for lampooning, the time the WSL told him he could have a job if he combed his hair, and how if you identify race as a punchline of a joke, you may be the problem. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Billy is back to discuss the difficulties of raising Laird, discovering Nazare, the benefits of psychedelics, and how his relationship with John Milius ended with a punch and a transfer of one millions dollars. Enjoy! (Originally published May 27, 2020) Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Billy Hamilton joins us to discuss growing up in Laguna before the ocean was poisoned by detergents from civilization’s expansion, his early travels in Kauai in the 60’s, meeting Laird and his mother on the beach at Rocky Point, surfing Pipeline naked, and living (partying) with Bunker Spreckles when he inherited $100 million dollars. Part One of Two. Enjoy! (Originally aired May 2020). Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Outer Banks' finest Vlogger joins us to discuss how he entered the surf world's awareness with a 10 at Pipe, how growing up alongside YouTube primed him for the rigors of selfie stardom, the exact workload and ROI of producing weekly content, early pioneering trips to Skeleton Bay, and how leaving a decade-long relationship with a shaper has expanded his awareness of his own surfing ability. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

2x Big Wave World Champ Paige Alms joins us to discuss the gift of her mother’s wanderlust, how restaurant work financed her surf career, the Jaws incident that necessitated a jet ski purchase, and the virtues of returning to a hunter-gather lifestyle. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Underexposed multidisciplinary talent Bryce Young joins us to chat about his new film, how Burch’s unique boards broke down perceptions of his own limitations, his father’s sage and surprisingly simple advice, the devastation of losing everything to a fire, and why now is the right time to share decades of archival family footage and story. Enjoy! Intro Music: Jim James, State Of The Art Outro Music: Yusef Lateef, The Plum Blossom Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Polymath Matt George joins us to discuss 35 years of surf writing, why surfing fosters female power and male vulnerability, the dangers of the algorithm eroding surfing's great lessons, narrowly escaping Hollywood, and why emergency relief work has become his life's passion. Enjoy! Intro/Outro Music: Allen Ginsberg and Phillip Glass, Wichita Vortex Sutra Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

22 year old surfboard shaper John Simon discusses the value of starting with a broom, developing his craft under the Trimcraft tutelage, how extreme designs deliver subtle effects, the perils of growing too quickly, and how riding other shapers boards has provided his quickest lessons learned. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

The current World Longboard Champ joins us to discuss the ecstasy and obligation that comes with achieving your life's goals, the virtue and burden of being "underrated", the value of defying definition as a professional surfer in 2023, and the futile endeavor of applying a judging criteria to surfing. Enjoy! Into music: Allen Toussaint, Southern Nights Outro music: Calexico, Alone Again Or Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

New Jersey's former grom phenom Shaun Crowley joins us to discuss returning to surfing after a decade hiatus, how to sell it all and relocate your life to Mexico, why you should delete Instagram (but start a YouTube channel), and the freedom and refuge that comes with finding your community. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In Part Two, Jeff Johnson explains how he side-doored his way into becoming Patagonia’s first staff photographer, the toll of being sued by one of his surf idols, and he distills the value of being naive to your own limitations. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Adventurer Jeff Johnson joins us today to explain his path from ne'er-do-well skate teen to world class photographer; from stealing lumber to build skate ramps, to lifeguarding on the North Shore, to traveling the world professionally, Jeff explains how boredom is the key to unlocking your life’s passion. Part 1 of 2. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Apple called him "a pioneer with profound impact". Newsweek said he "changed the public face of graphic design". In 1991 David Carson redesigned Surfer Magazine and established a now iconic graphic design style seated in raw human emotion which led to numerous awards and an expansive client list including Audi, Nike, Obama, and album art for Nine Inch Nails. A lifelong surfer and 2018 inductee into the East Coast Surfing Hall of Fame, Carson discusses the value of failing publicly, the importance of humanity in design, and why it is impossible to not communicate. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Roark founder Ryan Hitzel joins us to discuss how his high-school notebook doodles led to a design job at Volcom, line-up hierarchy etiquette fortified him for the pitfalls of entrepreneurship, and how a forced expedition by his parents mapped the blueprint for his life's work. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Andrew Kidman joins us to discuss how his enthusiasm for wave pools inspired his latest film, why he prefers terrible surf, Filipe’s distinct advantage related to his board construction, and the burden and gift of having had a UFO encounter in his youth. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Surfing World publisher, Surfrider Chairman, Patagonia Head of Editorial, author, Sean Doherty joins us to discuss the stories behind the 60th anniversary issue of Surfing World, his optimism about political regime change in Australian government, the current state of professional surfing, and the fastest he's ever gone on a surfboard. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Surfline's Vice Prez of Product and Innovation joins us to discuss how he went from apathetic student to surf forecast savant, boot-strapping a business from zero to acquisition twice, maintaining a balanced lifestyle through pitfalls and rapid growth, and how the value of knowing every facet of your business translates to hard value. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today's show Chris discusses the unlikely inspiration for his first film, how Yvon Chouinard's friendship has influenced his path, the freedom in knowing when to exit, his next big surf trip, and how hull's have altered his appreciation of surfing. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Professional surfer turned filmmaker Chris Malloy joins us to discuss how a singular lesson from his father became his career missive, the gift he gave back in return, hiring a young Jack Johnson to operate the Bolex for his first film, and how a near career-ending wipeout at Pipe created the space to explore a passion that will become his legacy beyond the surf world. Part Two will be published next week. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Dane Gudauskas joins us to discuss how to unlock peak performance in midlife, how riding finless kookboxes has informed his new skate-inspired board design, why a position of gratitude has empowered his self-determination, and the life change that inspired him to leave his surf-centric San Clemente hometown. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Early California surf pioneer Rosemari Reimers Rice joins us to discuss growing up in the hub of surfboard manufacturing in the early 50s, being the first female team rider for Dewey Weber, landing in Santa Cruz in the early 70s, the healing role that Native American spiritualism played in her life, and how her husband's legacy of board building is manifesting through her grandson. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s show, Santa Cruz board builder Ward Coffey explains why small is beautiful, how COVID surfers are altering sacred lineups, how his dad’s Silicon Valley job altered surfboard manufacturing, and the outsized return of prioritizing lifestyle over work. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In the fringe, burgeoning surf culture along the North Sea coast of Scotland, Jason Burnett has become one of the regions first board builders. For 8 years he was building boards for local surfers and experimenting with the Edge design, assyms, and laminating everything himself in his Edinburgh factory. That was until it all burned down last year. Today he shares his story of rebuilding Jay Surfboards. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Oceanside board builder Kurtis Woodin joins us to outline how he leveraged the COVID boom to build a factory and scale up production while still maintaining the highest quality, the vital importance of taking a full month away from work each year, why investing in customer service will never fail to pay off, and the unlikely overlap between massage therapy and surfboard shaping. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Emmy winning North Shore photographer Mike Prickett joins us to discuss how he'll be chasing major swell events to bring us live streaming free surf sessions from around the globe this year, how new remote controlled tech is allowing him to put cameras in the impact zone of 60' waves, and how two separate near-death accidents spurred the most creative and productive chapters in his career. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

"The Willy Wonka of Torquay", board builder Corey Graham joins us to discuss growing up in a factory with a pioneer board builder as a father, how foam drinks up energy, why a knee injury forced him to redesign his entire shaping philosophy, and how failure leads to freedom. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Troy Eckert joins us to discuss his role is helping build a billion dollar surf brand and the consternation of walking away from it, why self turmoil leads to external turmoil, the importance of saying "no", and how to get the best wave of your life after turning 50. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

On Sunday January 22nd the most prestigious surf event on the planet took place for only the 10th time ever. In historic swell conditions, The Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational, named after the legendary lifeguard who was lost at sea, hosted 40 big wave specialists, including multiple world champs and the by the end of the day, the winner had amassed two perfect scores and nearly two perfect heats. He, too, is a North Shore lifeguard and he did it all while on duty, in between tourist rescues and bandaging other competitors. This is his story. Enjoy. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Jason Baffa returns to discuss 20 years of filmmaking, how character always informs surf style, how his earliest goals remain present in his new series on Disney+ "Chasing Waves", which examines Japanese surfing as it exists in country and worldwide, its origins, and it's increasing influence on greater culture. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Felipe Pomar returns to outline surfing's birthplace in Peru dating back 5000 years, how being of service to your community will help you surf till 100, and about being featured by Pope Francis in a recent Netflix documentary. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

1965 World Surfing Champion Felipe Pomar joins us to discuss lessons he's learned from 66 years of big wave riding, why he stopped drinking 60 years ago, how he plans to surf till 100, losing a friend at Pipeline, and why it's a bad idea to attempt to surf a tsunami. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Writer/Director Terrence Martin joins us today to discuss the seven year journey to make his latest film, how he got Ed Harris to co-star, funding the project with poker winnings, why his real-life love story is too farcical for fiction, how even "failure" is gratifying if you're chasing your passion, and why evolved humans always retreat back to simplicity. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Nine months after being suspended, 3x World Longboard Champ Joel Tudor breaks his silence to detail precisely why the WSL has obfuscated their reason for his suspension, why they banned commentators from saying his name, how a fight after he burned someone at Pipe led to him becoming a BJJ World Champ, why he regrets partnering with SurfTech, and explains the role that cannabis has played in his wellness and career ambition. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Pipeline stalwart, B-Girl, and college professor Lane Davey joins us today to discuss braving Pipeline in the early 90s, creating the first female boardshort, the importance of a meritocratic hierarchy, the repercussions of willful ignorance, and how HipHop has informed her entire approach to surfing, education, and life. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Today we celebrate the life of Art Brewer by introducing you to The Plug w/Justin Jay. Justin has been a featured guest on Surf Splendor twice (episodes 272 and 078) to discuss his photography work and in 2020 he launched a podcast to dive deeper with the subjects he's shooting. Past guests include Tony Hawk, Herbie Fletcher, Paul Rodriguez, Ireland Baldwin, and many more. Today we're sharing Justin's episode with the dearly departed surf photography icon Art Brewer. We hope you enjoy. Subscribe to The Plug w/Justin Jay wherever you get podcasts. And enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s we chat with superstar photographer Clark Little about his origin story, why he gave up surfing, how he became friends with the prince of Dubai, and how a $200,000 all-in gamble altered the course of his life. Enjoy! (Originally recorded in January 2018) Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Warshaw is back to discuss how the thrill of surfing has been replaced by the thrill of archiving surf history, the single hippest surfer of all time, the next monumental undertaking for the EOS, and to recommend the one female surf icon that David should interview posthaste. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Designer and board builder Paul Schmidt joins us to discuss his unconventional entry into board building, failing forward, the loneliness and freedom of working outside of the "industry", his unexpected friendship with Pat Curren, and how to unlock robust productivity by simply charging adequately for your work. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Champion longboarder, designer, entrepreneur CJ Nelson joins us to discuss being a regrettable influence on youth, the perils and privilege of growing up in Santa Cruz in the 90s, how near homelessness helped him rediscover surfing, and the virtue inherent in suffering. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

We just want to point your attention to another great podcast. If you like Surf Splendor, you'll love Surf Stories, produced by our friends at The Florida Surf Film Festival. Enjoy this episode and subscribe to "Surf Stories" wherever you're listening to this. "Ben Gravy has made a career out of quick surf trips and quick edits for a dedicated fan base. He is a traveler, always wearing a smile and spreading positivity and good humor to all fifty states. Join us for as we catch up with Ben on his way to the Florida Surf Film Festival, February 5, 2022, where we'll world premiere a documentary about his life."  Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

World Champ surfer and Life Rolls On founder Jesse Billauer joins us to discuss the vital importance of physical touch, his streak of defying doctor's prognoses, how to cultivate resilience, and his life's mission to get people surfing regardless of their physical limitations. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Parker Coffin joins us to discuss metrics used to measure success for a modern professional free surfer, the moment he chose happiness over competition, why talent goes wayward without hard work, and how his passion for self improvement ensures that surfing never feels like work. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

The Shaper Shack is a four part series featuring some of Australia’s finest surfboard shapers. From inventing the Thruster, to developing renewable materials, incorporating artificial intelligence into shaping, and scaling a global business, these shapers share their blueprint and speculate on the future. Today’s final episode of the series features Shyama Buttonshaw, Luke Daniels, Gunther Rohn, Stuart Campbell and his son Ryan. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

The Shaper's Shack is a four part series featuring some of Australia’s finest surfboard shapers. From inventing the Thruster, to developing renewable materials, incorporating artificial intelligence into shaping, and scaling a global business, these shapers share their blueprint and speculate on the future. Today’s episode features Darcy Day, Michael Psillakis, Alex Crews, and the father son team of Phil and Parrish Byrne. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

The Shaper Shack is a four part series featuring some of Australia’s finest surfboard shapers. From inventing the Thruster, to developing renewable materials, incorporating artificial intelligence into shaping, and scaling a global business, these shapers share their blueprint and speculate on the future. Today’s episode features Chris Garrett, Andrew Mooney, Bryan Bates, Dylan Perese, and Daniel Thomson. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Introducing The Shaper's Shack, a four part series featuring some of Australia’s finest surfboard shapers. From inventing the Thruster, to developing renewable materials, incorporating artificial intelligence into shaping, and scaling a global business, these shapers share their blueprint and speculate on the future. Today’s episode features Simon Anderson, Nick Blair, Sam Tehan, and Finn Whitla. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Donald Brink joins us to discuss the challenge of building a <5'3" surfboard for the 3x World Champ, the benefits and limitations of collaborating with one of the world's most revered shapers, the reason why he'll only ever build two boards a week, and why you should assess the auditory frequency and resonance of your next surfboard. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode Darren Handley details his first encounters with Stephanie Gilmore and Mick Fanning, he explains the challenges of scaling his business internationally and why he’s chosen to outsource some of his manufacturing. He explains how a new shaping robot has improved his business and his five years plan to in introduce a motorized DHD into the Snapper Rocks line up. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Shannon Hughes joins us to discuss how philanthropic work at Jeffrey's Bay lead to her commentating for the WSL, how to compartmentalize on-air anxiety, the value of abandoning preparedness, and the fiscal and ethical imperative for professional surfing to reflect the way surfing exists in the real world. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Brad Gerlach joins us to discuss how Olympic diving informed his surf style, his realization that he has over-surfed nearly ever wave in his life, he explains the virus embedded within surfing's language, and offers compelling advice for why you should interview your dad. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Pro surf phoenix Victor Bernardo joins us to discuss the unexpected new chapter in his career, being deported and separated from his wife for five months, a sponsor dropping him and then pleading mea culpa, whether style can be learned, and how slowing down has allowed him the focus to execute his goals. Enjoy! Nicolas Godin, What Makes Me Think About You The Lijadu Sisters, Come On Home Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Laurie Towner is a product of, victim of, and again beneficiary of the surf industry boom and bust. Today he tells us about the early glory days, the virtue of working in the trades, and how those experiences positioned him perfectly to spend a year on the road with the wife and kids chasing surf, fish, and exploring the vast Australian wilderness. Watch Slow Lane here. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

The Academy Award nominated documentary filmmaker joins us to discuss his new memoir, the 50th anniversary of his seminal surf film, working with Stanley Kubrick, nearly dying at Sunset while filming Big Wednesday, and the immeasurable dividends paid when you pursue your life's passion. Enjoy! Intro Music: Honk, Pipeline Sequence Outro Music: The Beach Boys, Feel Flows Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Surf industry stalwart Dario Phillips joins us to discuss lessons learned from within big surf brands during the boom years, how to bootstrap a concept into a reality, the power of partnership, why lean is strong, and how encouraging work/life balanced life fuels productivity. Enjoy! Intro Music: The Durutti Column, Sketch For Summer Outro Music: The Fruit Bats, The Ruminant Band Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Rock N' Roll Hall of Fame guitarist Chris Shiflett joins us to discuss whether music can be objectively bad, why you ought never foist your preferences on your children, how surf videos of the early 90s led to his role with The Foo Fighters, and how family life has kept him grounded amidst the centrifuge of rock star vice. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

The story of Gordon and Smith surfboard closely mirrors the story of surfing in Southern California. The brand is credited with introducing the first surf logo tee, the first shaping machine, the first surf skateboard, and much more. Today Debbie Gordon reflects on the six decade journey and explains why focusing on quality surfboards is now as important as ever. Enjoy! Intro Music: Does It Really Make A Difference, Galactic & Mavis Staples Outro Music: Roll On Babe, Ronnie Lane & Slim Chance Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Jeff & Ryan Hurley join us to discuss sharing their childhood bedroom with Occy and Sunny, lessons learned from their father's big gamble, the art of a well-executed exit, the importance of aligning one's work and value system, and how a brand can make an impact in the world. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Publisher Steve Pezman joins us to discuss his new book, how to succeed in print publishing in 2022, why modern surfing needs more counter-culture figures, lament the interviews that he still hasn't gotten, and explain why Olympic surfing showcases a false representation of the sport. Enjoy! Link to Steve's first appearance on Surf Splendor in 2014, Episode 35 Intro Music: Tim Buckley, Buzzin' Fly Outro Music: Bob Dylan, Buckets of Rain Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Sterling Spencer returns to discuss the dark repercussions of his brain injury, his path through recovery, how his audience has given him purpose, the importance of kindness, the kindness of Machado, and as cliche as it sounds, the healing powers of the sea. Enjoy! Intro Music: Alex Ebert, Truth Outro Music: Anderson.Paak, The Bird Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Dane Hantz returns to discuss withdrawing Vulcan Surfboards from the market, how the shaping machine is enabling an authoritative archiving of surfboard history, the disconnect between the surf industry and surf culture, and how one physical altercation in the water has kept his dry docked for the past two years. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Dick Metz returns to discuss a new documentary featuring his return to South Africa to relive and revisit the journey that inspired The Endless Summer. He also recounts his role in the early days of Clark Foam, working with a young Gerry Lopez, his relationship with Duke, and how he came to acquire the unequivocal greatest collection of surfboards in the world. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Sasha Jane Lowerson made international news last month for winning Women's Longboard Title's in West Oz, not for the feat itself, but for the fact that she had been competing for the previous three decades in the men's divisions. Today she share's her thoughts on the Internet's fervent response to her wins, she addresses questions of fairness, and details the cost of suppressing one's true self. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Pro surfer turned media man Dylan Graves is now using his popular Vlog to dissect social dilemma's that surf media historically has willfully ignored. Through doing so, he's also successfully transitioned his pro surf career into a new chapter where he's found more meaning and purpose. Today we discuss the journey, motivations, and his imperative to expand surfings inclusivity.  Intro Music: Solange, Binz Outro Music: Gabriel Garzon-Montano, Sour Mango Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Self proclaimed "pro surf fraud", Benji Weatherley joins us to chat about being cancelled by the WSL, his regrettable compulsion for making excuses, how his 10 disappeared years were his happiest and most informative, and why being honest about addiction staves off depression and helps keep the narrative light. Enjoy! Intro Music: Edward Sharp, That's What's Up Outro Music: The Black Keys, Everlasting Light Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Jon Pyzel joins us from Bali to discuss JJF's one-universal-board theory, the value of growing a business slower than its potential, why he keeps such a small roster of athletes, the risks involved with so closely tying his brand to one athlete, and his accidental path to being business savvy. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Artist Drew Brophy catapulted to surf world fame in the 90s by when his artwork adorned the boards that sparked a cultural movement. He parlayed that popularity over the next three decades into television and film work, corporate commissions, and fine art. In November 2021, he contracted COVID and spent 28 days in a coma. Today he recounts the experience and attempts to process life after returning from the edge of existence. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Wayne Rich is an International Surfboard Builder Hall of Famer and a 2x Icons of Foam winner. In this episode Wayne details his childhood in Hermosa Beach during the heyday of Noll, Bing, and Weber. He unpacks asymmetrical board design and discusses how the wipeout that nearly paralyzed him altered his perspective on surfing, shaping, and life. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Waterman, the award winning Duke Kahanamoku documentary hit theaters last week. Today filmmaker Isaac Halasima discusses Duke's extraordinary life, how he navigated the delicate nature of sharing a vested story, and how Waterman will serve in the long legacy of Polynesian oral tradition. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Surf lampooner Jonathan Wayne Freeman joins us to recount his fast rise to Instagram stardom, warn about the perils of pretending to be a manly man, offer insights for how to pursue a childhood dream in your 40s, and tell the tale of being chased across the Pacific by the posse of a famous, fun-loving hippy. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

The fourth generation magician, surfing's kickflip pioneer, and Santa Cruz stalwart regales us with stories of having Barney as a neighbor, how expected recognition is an empty pursuit, the power of positivity, and how to turn grief into fuel for your life's work. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Greg Jacobs sits at the nexus of surf content distribution. The top filmmakers in surf rely on him to ensure their work finds its way to you, regardless of what platforms you're on; no easy task when audiences are dispersed and attention spans are waning. Today he explains the complications and opportunity that exist for filmmakers and dissects his next big projects. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Sean Murphy ditched the suit and tie and the weight of his parent's expectations to follow a pipe dream. His life experience uniquely positioned him to develop a niche business that would come to influence the surf world beyond measure. Today he shares his origin story and explains why relationships are fundamental to business success and what surf travel looks like post-COVID. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Stephen Cooney was raised on the Northern Beaches of Sydney in the 50s and 60s. At the age of 16, Albe Falzon invited him to Bali to surf in his upcoming, now seminal, surf film. Cooney found himself embedded within three simultaneous flash points in surfing; the shortboard revolution, the MOTE movement, and the launching of Tracks magazine. Today we revisit the stories and photos through his newly released autography, Unearthed. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

The always lovely Jamie Brisick returns to tell us about his foray into podcast hosting, dating in his 50s, the status of Westerly, and how to maintain vibrant creativity throughout life's many ups and downs. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

This month marks the 50th anniversary of the seminal surf film Morning Of The Earth. Filmmaker Albe Falzon joins us to the films recently found footage, his effortless dedication to living in a creative flow state, losing his passion for filmmaking, and the importance of visibility. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Ehukai lifeguard, greatest bodysurfer of all time, friend to all, Mark Cunningham joins us to discuss amphibious life, the greatest to ever ride Pipe, the importance of surf brands, the over growth of the North Shore, and why being immersed in water is better than gliding atop. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

It’s been 2 years since our last one-on-one with Selema Masekela. In that time he’s reversed aged, launched a clothing brand, a book, a podcast, and commentated surfings debut at the Olympics. Today we catch up and he blueprints his recipe for wise wellness as he embarks on his 6th decade.  Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Stab's resident surfboard reviewer, writer, and content wrangler Michael Ciaramella joins us to detail his first-ever sessions at Pipe and Waimea. He talks about confront the fear, board selection, crowd navigation, the glory of success, and why he why he only advocates for a helmet sometimes. Plus we talk Stab biz and much more. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Brad Gerlach hosts a chat with the winner and winning team of the Da Hui Backdoor Shootout, Snapt4's Mason Ho, Parker Coffin, Barron Mamiya, Benji Brand, and filmmaker Logan Dulien. Brad celebrates their win and dissects waves-that-could-have-been and strategizes for the next session. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

San Diego board builder Stu Kenson has built boards for decades, with Rusty, for Joel Tudor, with JS, and all the while for his own SK Shapes label. Today he joins us to discuss surf culture's recent infusion of "recreationalists", the magic of channels, building Maverick's Guns, and how to surf at a high level into your mid-sixties. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Israel's burgeoning surf scene centers around Tel Aviv where Arthur Rashkovan discovered surfing and now runs Klinika Surf Shop. Today he explains the role that surfing plays in Israeli culture, lessons he's learned from Doc Paskowitz, and why high quality surfboards are the most essential ingredient to Israeli surfing’s success. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Alex Gray spent 8 months of quarantine on Namotou and Tavarua as one of the only surfers with full access to Cloudbreak. Today he tells the story and explains his revitalized passion for surfing, health, and sharing it all with others. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

The whole gang is together to reflect on 2021, make bold predictions for 2022 and hold one another accountable for their New Year's resolutions. Join David Scales, Devon Howard, Matt Warshaw, Chas Smith, Kevin Miller of the Florida Surf Film Festival, and the Breuer Brothers (Tyler and Jamie) of Hardcore Surf History in celebrating the new year. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Former pro surfer, elite level coach and mentor Jim Hogan joins us to talk about rise, fall, and recent qualification of Carlos Munoz, the value of disadvantage, and his goal to bring the worlds smallest surf nations onto the World Tour. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Board builder and inventor Greg Webber joins us to discuss designing on the fringe, infighting in the wave pool biz, and how Webber Reefs will not only transform your local closeout but will benefit the eco-diversity and your home's value. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Original Z-Boy, part of the greatest surf team ever, Oxford English Dictionary consultant, and surfing's foremost historian Matt Warshaw joins us to watch Haleiwa, talk about the ultimate mic drop moment in surfing, and tell us about his recent dinner with Kelly Slater. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

MC returns to discuss the aftermath from our last chat, Sunny Garcia, the concept of “sustainability” in surfboards, searching for his birthfather, and how confronting vulnerability is allowing him dispel past trauma. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode Maurice Cole contemplates recent tragedy and candidly laments compromising his integrity to chase business goals. He explores the correlation between stress and cancer and explains why every surf brand has failed after going public and how he’s personally lost millions of dollars. Lastly, Cole analyzes the aftermath of these traumas and explains why reinvention is most fertile in the wake of disaster. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Israel "Izzy" Paskowitz discusses growing up with 8 siblings in a 24 foot camper, the blessings and limitations of his father's rigorous ideology, how his son's Autism has helped him overcome a life of self-centeredness, and the ocean's unique therapeutic benefits. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Author Thad Ziolkowski joins us to discuss surfing's sordid history with drugs and alcohol, how surfing triggers behavioral addiction's physiology and how the act of surfing can aid in addiction recovery. Thad also shares his own story of substance misuse and finding refuge through surfing. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In December of 2012 Derek Dunfee was found floating unconscious 100 miles to sea, nearly 20 minutes after suffering a horrendous wipeout at Cortes Bank. For the first time, Derek surveys the experience and how it has altered his perspective and shaped his future. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Quietly and immeasurably influencing the surf world, Jon Roseman's stewardship of Cloudbreak has been cosigned by Fijian tribal leaders and pro surfers alike. Today he shares stories from 30 years of swells, why his best surfing is still ahead of him, and how he hopes to convert his experiences into sustainable success for Tavarua's future. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In our 2nd and final installment, Mickey Munoz tells us about his work stunt doubling for Sandra Dee in the film Gidget, his involvement with Surftech and the concerns of overseas surfboard manufacturing, he then closes our chat proposing a theory about time travel and potentially discovering the Fountain of Youth. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Southern Californian icon, board builder, Gidget stunt double, professional surfer, all around surf pioneer Mickey Munoz joins us to tell about the solid balsa 8'10" he bought from Joe Quigg for $55, how he caught the best wave of his life at age 72, and shares his breaking point for Miki Dora's antics. Part one of two. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

With 50 years of board building experience, Maui's Jeff Timpone continues to innovate, both with construction and design. He joins us to discuss the virtues of being cheap, practical sustainability, the perils of turning a passion into a career, and why he's feeling more spry and optimistic at 72 than ever before. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Torren Martyn joins us to discuss his sojourn from Scotland to West Africa, his new found celebrity, the anti-Vlog, the fine line that separates exploration and exploitation, and why he plans to spend the next phase of his life on the open ocean. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today's episode Tyler Breuer talks with Derek Hynd replicating his life's quiver, The Ultimate Surfer, having his life's material possessions vanquished in a fire, and the virtues of difficult surfboards. Plus, a deep dive into Derek Hynd trivia with the Breuer bros. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Plumber turned professional big wave surfer Andrew Cotton talks about being rescued by helicopter at Mullaghmore, breaking his back at Nazare, how to build a surf career on humility, and why Southwest England is quietly the best home base for access to epic surf. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Akila returns to discuss why big swells coincide with big losses, how increased demand can actually threaten a small business, why Twins hold perfect balance, any he blueprints an escape route for both emotional and physical trauma. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

SUPPORT As the surf industry has largely disbanded, talented and experienced former big surf brand stalwarts are positioned to reengineer surf clothing, reinvest in surf retail, and potentially redevelop surf culture. Today we speak with two Hurley proteges who are reinvigorating Bob's 41 year old plan to share design ideas and inclusive ideology. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Boardbuilder Tim Crozier talks about the inherent rewards of kindness, gleaning insights from each of the Icons of Foam, how to "stay small and keep it all", and why Twins are the solution from 5' to 11'. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

SUBSCRIBE In today's show Brad Gerlach interviews Kelly Slater about the Olympics, the strengths and limitations of Gabriel, JJF, Italo, and Kanoa, Tour memories, Occy impersonations, and how to perfect the frontside floater. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

SUBSCRIBE 3x Surf Expo Shape-Off winner, 30 year board builder, Atlantic Beach lifer, Mike Whisnant joins us to discuss how he's leveraged the challenges of 2020 to grow his business, how to raise a family on board builder wages, and the inherent value of hard work. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Harbour Surfboards was my home surf shop growing up, so you can imagine the honor it was for me to record this conversation with Rich Harbour in 2013. His passing 10 days ago has left a vacuum in the community, but his imprint is worldwide and his influence is immeasurable. Today, Rich tells me about his early experiences working with a revolutionary new material, polyurethane foam, growing and evolving a business for more than half a decade, and the importance of small business. Enjoy! ~ David Scales Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Big wave surfer, 8x Guinness Record holder Garrett McNamara is our guest today. He's also the star of the new HBO docu-series "100 Foot Wave". Today we talk about finding a pro surf career in his 40s, pioneering Nazare, the politics behind XXL award winners, and the importance of setting intention. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

SUPPORT Film star, pro surfer, marketing exec, WSL SVP, and now brand president, Pat O'Connell joins us to discuss why 2021 is a cornerstone year for surfing and how lessons learned from decades past will allow him to implement change with his largest responsibility to date. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

SUBSCRIBE Father of 11 year old surf star Cruz Dinofa, Tim joins us to discuss how to cultivate talent without breeding expectation, how to partner with the surf industry, and how to protect your child from online vitriol. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

SUPPORT After a decade at Disney and Amazon, first time CEO Kyle Laughlin joins Surfline as part of a $30 million investment to bolster their 35 year data set in hopes of growing the largest online surf community beyond the realm of coastal users. Today we discuss this nexus and what it means for surfing at large. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Today we review and discuss the Dream Fish Twin with Roger Hinds; an alternative shortboard featuring a swallow tail and two fins that are separated by a single channel that provides bite for the traditional Vee. Should you add a Dream Fish Twin to your quiver? David offers all the info you’ll need to answer that question. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Ryan Scanlon joins us to discuss the value of sabbaticals, how singular focus allows you to multi-task, the benefit of diversity in business, and why a 7'6" single-fin is the ultimate one board quiver. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Welcome back to Post-Script, a brief yet thorough overview of each event on the WSL championship tour. Today, a recap of event #3 of the 2021 season, The Rip Curl Narrabeen Classic presented by Corona. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Welcome back to Post-Script, a brief yet thorough overview of each event on the WSL championship tour. Today, a recap of event #2 of the 2021 season, the Rip Curl Newcastle Cup presented by Corona. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Derek Hynd is rebuilding his life's quiver (Hyndline) and he's 15 years deep into riding FFFF (fins free for the layperson). In today's episode he tells the vivid details of losing his eye (and permanent eyesight) while surfing heat. He spills the sordid details of his little black book (all 4 of them). He explains how he invented "The Search" and describes why he's evolved beyond fins and into friction free surfing. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Bill & Casey Shedd join us to discuss the difference between environmental protection vs conservation, how to grow a business for 60 years through generational transitions, and why calm discourse is the only path to a heathy and robust ocean ecosystem. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

While the vast majority of his competitors are quarantined in Sydney, Connor O'Leary is running mock heats at Newy and tuning boards. He joins us to chat about the subjectivity of the judges and how a professional surf career in 2021 is more dependent on selfies than heat wins. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Sage Erickson is on day 9, quarantined in Sydney. She candidly reflects on her fear of Pipeline and the delicate balance of enjoying professional surfing while still leveling up, and whether a world title is worth the sacrifice required to earn it. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Part 2 of In The Q. Conner Coffin is quarantined in Sydney, preparing to compete at Newcastle. He explains how to transition out of life long relationships in order to develop new facets of your surfing, how to shed youthful chub and cultivate grit, and how to temper the distraction inherent with bringing a girlfriend on Tour. And more! Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Quarantined in a Sydney hotel room, Lakey Peterson explains how she's adapting to the uncertainty of the '21 season, how she's prepped for 8' Teahupo'o, and why she's views Caroline Marks as the her biggest impediment to a world title and how she plans to beat her. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Today we reassess the Aloha Spirit, examine the inherit reward ingrained in the act of surfing, and analyze who is allowed privilege to that benefit; all through the lens of a very public incident that occurred northside of the Manhattan Beach pier on President's Day morning. Brick and Gage Crismond of Black Sand Surf and Ryan Harris of Earth Technologies joins us in conversation. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

30x30 is the environmental initiative that the WSL has been asking you to sign. Former pro surfer and associate director at Wildcoast, Zach Plopper, joins us to demystify the initiative, explain why surfers are angry about it, and simplify how to educate yourself with actually facts (spoiler: don't rely social media). Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Today we review and discuss the Twinsman with Matt Parker of Album Surfboards; an alternative shortboard featuring two fins and a wing into a rounded pin. A low entry rocker leads to a single concave into a spiral vee into a pronounced vee, and the deck features a concave throughout. Should you add a Twinsman to your quiver? David offers all the info you'll need to answer that question. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Big wave icon Peter Mel discusses his monumental Maverick's ride, being rescued by his son, the prospect of one's best wave being behind them, and ushering in a sixth decade and third generation of surf retail in Santa Cruz. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Free Scrubber director, Swellian, magazine man, Vaughan Blakey (aka Deadly) joins the podcast today to discuss life lesson's learned from Tom Curren, his filmmaking ambitions, trying not to tarnish print's legacy, and how ATS allowed him to shirk the cuffs of editorial expectations. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Britt Merrick returns to discuss his new role as CEO of Channel Islands Surfboards and how he rallied the employees and team riders to buy back the company that his father founded 51 years ago. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Innovative board builder, coach, father figure to countless youths, Ben Aipa passed away on January 15th due to complications suffered from a heart attack and Alzheimer's. Today we survey Ben's influence and celebrate the many benefits we enjoy thanks to his impact. Featuring interviews with Ben himself, Akila Aipa, Roger Hinds, Matt Calvani, and Davey Smith. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

We continue our conversation with Jon LaLanne who explains why he left Malibu, unpacks his career as a board builder and the design theory behind the Gemini, and how Jon personally implement's his father's legacy of health and wellness. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Board builder Jon LaLanne joins us to discuss how obstacles become ladders, the value of shame, the Gemini board design, and how to carve a unique life path as a son to a father who is larger than life. Enjoy. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Welcome back to Post-Script, a brief yet thorough overview of each event on the WSL championship tour. Today, a recap of the opening events of the 2021 season. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Filmmaker, writer, surfboard shaper Andrew Kidman joins us to discuss the delicate art of communicating surfboard design to water performance through film, why it's important to look back in order to move forward, and why he's doubling down on print publishing in 2021. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Bill "Stretch" Riedel is today's guest. He discusses growing up in Malibu with Tom Morey and Mickey Munoz, the ocean accident that left his right side paralyzed, how he relearned to shape with his left arm, maintaining lifelong relationships with athletes, and the sweet ecstasy of a good quality cigar. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

A brief ten years into the surfboard game, Michael Arenal is establishing a reputation as a deft and reliable shaper for some of the industry's leading labels and as an astute craftsmen for his eponymous small batch customs. Today he talks about how to navigate entry into the business without stepping on toes and how he plans to use the benefits of this current boom to grow into the next decade. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Brad Gerlach opens up about navigating through depression, the paramount importance of connection, and why he's dedicated the next phase of his life toward getting you to slow down. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Blake Peters joins us to talk about how to capitalize on the boom board builders are experiencing during COVID, the value delegation, and importance of taking a gap year. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

New owner of Surfing World magazine, Sean Doherty discusses his acquisition, his latest book "Golden Daze", and why it's important for surf media to be helmed by passionate surfers and not by private equity controlled conglomerates. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Oregon based surf photographer Mark McInnis lost everything he owned last week as his house burned to the ground in the Holiday Farm Fire. Today he discusses the value of a complete reset, how a limitation can become a virtue, and the importance accepting help. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Simon Jones discusses the power of collective consciousness, how one surf soundtrack changed his life's trajectory, and why 3 stringers and 2 fins is all you'll ever need. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

At long last Matt Warshaw bestows an Encyclopedia of Surfing podcast upon the world. The Breuer brothers (Swell Season) roll up Warshaw's Sunday Joint and take a deep inhale of surfings, past, present, and future. Welcome to episode one. Enjoy. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Lauren Hill is a mother, author, and ecofeminist. In today's show she explains how a commitment to curiosity has resulted in an unlikely surf career, an even less likely life as a farmer, and a cosmic premonition that inspired her to move across the world in a quest to stay centered. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Self proclaimed "#1 Surfer In The World", pro surfer antagonist, aspiring Centaur, and the greatest to ever surf Alabama, Sterling Spencer joins the podcast to discuss the paradoxical relationship between comedy and depression, why you shouldn't go vegan, and being kissed on the lips by Jeremy Flores. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Surfboard shaper, former pro surfer, writer, surf historian, Dave Parmenter discusses how “old” surfboard designs are more advanced than many modern designs, why he doesn’t read surf mags nor watch surf films, and why he’s spending most of his water time miles off the coast. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Dani Burt is an Adaptive World Surfing Champ, Doctor of Physical Therapy, and above knee amputee as a result of near death motorcycle accident. Today she shares her origin story, reveals what she experienced while in a 45 day coma, and how she leveraged anger and depression to grow and empower radical life change. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Convicted murderer, national surfing champ, and mastermind of America's biggest ever jewel heist, Jack Roland Murphy is the subject of today's show. Journalist and podcaster Nathan Scott spent 9 months with Murphy and his peers to investigate facts new details of this decades old case. We chat with Nathan to hear about his new podcast series and about the dramatic confrontation that ended his relationship with Murf the Surf. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Richard Kotch is a surf photographer and 50% of the dynamic surf guiding duo on the Maldivian island of Hudhuranfushi, along side his wife (and last week's podcast guest) Amy Kotch. Richard explains his early surf experiences that primed him for surf guiding, the challenges of island life, and how to continually improve your surfing into your 50s. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

"She Surf" cover surfer Amy Kotch joins us to share how, at 30, she left So Cal suburbia behind in pursuit of hollow, warm surf and a simplified life focus. Kotch explains life on a remote atoll as a surf guide, the challenges and joys of raising a kid there, and the quickest way to shift your perspective, values, and worldview. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Board builder Malcolm Campbell discusses the Bonzer design, the role it’s played in surfing and the quirky dynamics that sometimes push and often impede board design evolution. The Bonzer is the first truly functional, high-performance three finned surfboard design, and the Campbell Brothers introduced it a full decade prior to the invention of the Thruster. We bring today's episode straight from the Malcolm’s kitchen in his home in Oxnard. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Wyatt Daily shares his discovery of previously unseen surf footage of Greenough, Yater, and dozens more who would spark a design revolution and indelibly change the trajectory of surfing, as documented in his latest film, "Spoons: A Santa Barbara Story". Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Selema "Sal" Masekela and Ryan Harris join us for a discussion about how the surf industry can respond to Black Lives Matter to foster a healthier, more robust industry, why they are both more optimistic about the future of America than ever, and they introduce 1Planet1People. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Waves 4 Water is aiming to solve the world water crisis and has already provided sustained solutions for 3.75 million people. Jon Rose discusses his transition from a self-focused life of professional surfing into a life of effective altruism and the challenges of running an international organization. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

William Finnegan has been an important figure contributing to surfing for the past 30 years or so, mainly as a writer, but also as a discoverer and explorer. Author of the Pulitzer winning "Barbarian Days", he and David discuss his journey and navigating how surfing fits into relationships, work, and life. (This episode was original published on December 20, 2015). Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

San Diego board builder and Skip Frye apprentice Josh Hall joins us to pay homage to Kauai, discuss his recent elk hunt in New Mexico, survey the surfboard biz in the time of COVID, and reevaluate how to love and care for our parents as they age. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Billy Hamilton joins David to discuss the difficulties of raising Laird, discovering Nazare, the benefits of psychedelics, and how his relationship with John Milius ended with a punch and a transfer of one millions dollars. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Billy Hamilton joins David to discuss growing up in Laguna before the ocean was poisoned by detergents from civilization's expansion, his early travels to Kauai in the 60's, meeting Laird and his mother on the beach at Rocky Point, surfing Pipeline naked, and living (partying) with Bunker Spreckles when he inherited $100 million dollars. Part one of two. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Kauai waterman Terry Chung joins us to talk about his recent trip to foil Nazare with Laird, raising well-adjusted children on Kauai, his journey through board building, the evolution of the surf foil, and how to sustain big wave wipeouts at the age of 65. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Kauai Council Member and co-founder of Kamanu Composites Luke Evslin joins us to talk about the challenges of being a small composites manufacturer in Kauai, how he's addressing housing and climate change from City Hall, and how a near death experiences shifted his life's trajectory. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Nic Timpone shares his thoughts on the state of sustainable surfboards and the Timpone Nub model; a channel bottom bat tail that he and his father will build in their Maui Leaf Lite construction for one lucky donor this month. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Professional MMA fighter, surfer, activist Dustin Barca discusses homelessness in Kauai, the environmental impact of genetically modified agriculture, political corruption, and how discipline has helped him find focus and purpose. Part two of two. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Professional MMA fighter, surfer, activist Dustin Barca discusses homelessness in Kauai, the environmental impact of genetically modified agriculture, political corruption, and how discipline has helped him find focus and purpose. Part one of two. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Mr. Sunset and co-founder of Quiksilver USA Jeff Hakman talks about dressing in drag to avoid Vietnam, earning and losing a small fortune, conquering a 30 year substance addiction, and positioning himself to surf into 100 years of age. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

As part of our contribution to The Lockdown Surf Film Festival, David Scales interviews The Surfer's Journal Editor and film director Nathan Meyers about his film "Here & Now". The film is screening for 24 hours on LockdownSurfFilmFestival.com. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Californian Mark Sausen made his way with one board, a Terry Martin shape, to Kauai in 1970. Over the next 50 years he'd marry into a native family, develop a craft for building some of the most acclaimed boards for the local waves, and come to share ownership of the most prized land in all of Hawai'i. This is his story. Enjoy. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

The beauty and relative seclusion of Kauai has long made it favorite, albeit somewhat little disclosed, destination for surfers. It's recently become a prized location for tech billionaires and agricultural corporations. The convergence of these varied interests has led to rapid change and an erosion of traditional Hawaiian culture. Today we hear from Max Medeiros, Bronson Lovell, and Lance Ebert about building boards and adapting to life on the Garden Isle. Enjoy. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Twenty year ‘CT veteran, meditation teacher and envy of every single surfer since 1993 for his power prowess, Taylor Knox opens up about boneheadedness, the fallacy of regret, and why his power is based in stillness. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

John Dahl is the founder/owner of Sticky Bumps and a pioneer of surf wax. Today he explains how he's been the beneficiary of serendipity, how he's leveraged incremental lessons into sustained returns and when it's the appropriate to fire or promote family members. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Board builder Ryan Harris runs the world's only zero waste surfboard factory. Today he shares his origin story, how designing shoes translates to shaping, the importance of starting at the bottom, and how he'll make more money from his trash than he will from selling surfboards. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In this new 6 part series surfboard shaper Donald Brink spends a week in the mountains with board builders and artists. Today he chats with Jeff McCallum about the fallacy of "sustainable" surfboards, the virtues of the twin-fin Egg, and the unimportance of legacy. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Surfboard shaper and youth mentor Akila Aipa is expanding on his family legacy by building solutions for our modern needs on principles honed by his father. Today he discusses how he's embraced catharsis through missteps and how Kelly's success on Akila's boards will alter the next decade of his business and life. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Pro surfer turned Hurley Hawaii team manager turned organic farmer Joel Centeio chats about the equitability of sponsoring surfers, the challenge of fostering drive while living in paradise, and confronting the internal dilemma of killing animals to feed your family. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Kauai retailer, Aloha Exchange co-founder Jamie Dillberg talks about the legacy of localism, starting Famous traction, recovering from failure, and the importance of community to modern retail. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Rochelle Ballard's commitment to wellness was the guiding force behind her 15 year CT campaign. Today she chats about drawing from that experience to share wellness with others while attempting to maintain balance between life and professional obligations. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Vitruvian disciple and board builder Dane Hantz joins us to chat about the endangered California surf industry, the psychological risks of a social media curated life, and navigating parenting while trying to run a business and still find time to surf. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Originally published February 28, 2017. This week’s guest is unflinching big-wave surfer, champion spear fisherman, and part time Hollywood stuntman Mark Healey. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Musician, host, producer, Sal Masekela talks about the power and treachery of growing through grief, the gift of plant-based medicine, and getting out of one's own way to find peak performance. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Australia is burning. The 136 fires are burning so large that they are generating their own weather systems, have scorched millions of acres of land, killed 19 people, and millions of animals. Today we visit the singular uniqueness that makes this compromised country so important. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In our fourth installment with Metz he tell us about a cross country road trip with Edwards, Alter, and Brown and how he got the Hilton Hotel's family to finance Hobie's skateboard business. He also addresses inquiries about potential illegitimate children sired from his travels and much more! Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Welcome back to Post-Script, a quick overview of each event on the WSL championship tour. Today, a review of the 2019 Billabong Pipe Masters. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In our third installment with Metz he leaves South Africa and travels through subsaharan Africa, shoots arrows with the Masaii, dodges bulls in Pamplona, goes backstage at the Olympics and then finally returns home to inspire his friend Bruce Brown. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In our second conversations with Dick Metz, he tells us about selling his family liquor license to Disneyland to fund his three year journey around the world where he was jailed in Bombay, lived in a brothel in Panama, and eventually discovering Cape St Francis with the guidance of John Whitmore. Enjoy!  Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Photos and stories from Dick Metz's three year global surf trip in 1958 inspired his friend Bruce Brown to chase The Endless Summer. Metz was the first employee at Clark Foam. He opened the ever surfboard shop and he co-founded The Surfing Heritage & Culture Center. Enjoy part one of our three part series with Mr. Dick Metz. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Donald Brink chats with Surfrider CEO Chad Nelson and surfboard shapers around the world who have built boards from lobster buoys, miso barrels, and 200 year old savaged barn wood to outline options for sustainable surfboard building. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Jamie Brisick joins us for a discussion about the first time he smoked pot, his foray into BDSM, the absurdity of giant logos, losing his home to a fire, and how his life would have been different if he “succeeded” in his pro surfing goals. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Filmmaker Jack Coleman discusses his latest film, the value of making radical life changes, and why he's leaving his home of 20 years to vagabond around the world. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Era defining pioneer of the shortboard revolution, writer, World Champ; Nat Young discusses abandoning his animal aggression, reveals his favorite modern shapers, shares stories of Tom Blake & Miki Dora, and illuminates some of his greatest lessons learning as outlined in his latest book, “Church Of The Open Sky”.  Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Father, husband, surf historian, Matt Warshaw chats about how to nurse the bruising of online commenters, the virtues of quitting surfing, pays tributes to surf’s little known stories, and he outlines a grander EOS. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Welcome back to Post-Script, a quick overview of each event on the WSL championship tour. Today, a review of the off season and recap of the Meo Rip Curl Pro Portugal. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

BeachGrit co-founder, writer, and general surf influencer through his many roles in media, Derek Rielly confesses to accidental overachievement, reflects on his departure from Stab, shares the perils of partnering with Chas Smith, and discusses his latest book "Gulpilil". Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In an apple orchard on an island thirty miles north of Seattle and eight years removed from his last surf is where I found Drew Kampion. Author of six books, countless surf articles, and perhaps the main person responsible for surfing’s mischievous, irreverent presentation; Kampion reflects on his early years at Surfer, analyzes current surf media, and tells about the first time he got John Severson high. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Industrious surfboard shaper from Western Australia, Sunova Surfboard's Bert Burger joins us to extol the virtues of alternative materials, detail his role in co-founding Firewire Surfboards, and explain the benefits and misconceptions about building surfboards in Thailand. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Sal Masekela is a professional broadcaster, television host, musician & television producer. In today’s episode we discuss his unique origin story, he weighs-in on the failures of  the WSL broadcasters, & Slater’s potentially final year on tour. (This episode originally aired on March 15, 2017) Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Punk-flavored surfer, skateboarder, entrepreneur, and activist, from Newport, Rhode Island, often described as "the Godfather of New England surfing", literal godfather to Ian Walsh, defender of Ruggles, and friend to all, Sid Abbruzzi is our illustrious guest for today's show. Abbruzzi discusses his origin story, the state of retail, the value of time away from surfing, and importance of community. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Ed Wright and Brian Fredrickson shares stories from 60 years of business, mentoring some of the industry’s most iconic board builders, and how to continue a legacy after closing a retail business. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Channel bottom guru, shaper and laminator Dale Wilson chats with David to discuss his early introduction to Allen Byrne and the life altering epiphany he had on a channel bottom surfboard. He illuminates it’s virtues, it’s limitations, and explains why all surfers should be riding one. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Josh Hansen is a second generation heir to Hansen Surfboards. Founded by Don Hansen in 1961, Josh has helped usher Hansen from a local surf retailer into a 20,000 square footprint housing 55 employees. In part four of our Temples of Stoke series, Hansen discusses his transition to eComm, the perils of the consignment model, working with family, and how he's positioning to incorporate the next generation of Hansen's. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Welcome back to Post-Script, a quick overview of each event on the WSL championship tour. Today, a review of the off season and recap of the Tahiti Pro presented by Hurley. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Beginning as a team rider for Rich Harbour in 1980, Robert Howson has helped transition Harbour from a surfboard manufacturing facility into a thriving retail destination. He discusses the importance of honoring suppliers and how to retain saltiness and protect a legacy while incorporating modern business practices. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Today’s show is a conversation between Jamie Brisick and Pulitzer Prize winning author William Finnegan. The two chat about Brisick’s latest book, “The Dazzling Blue”, the process of writing, the struggle of maintaining a spot in the pecking order of your local line-up, and the virtue of taking time away from surfing.  Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Bing Copeland started Bing Surfboards in 1959.  After sharing his first wave with Greg Noll and under the tutelage of Dale Velzy, Bing became one of the largest board builders of the 60s. In today's episode Bing discusses his origin story, the value of delegation, transitioning the Bing legacy, and the incident that caused him to quitting surfing. This is part 2 of 5 of our limited run series #TemplesOfStoke presented by @SurfingHeritage Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Captain of the Indies Trader Fleet and founder of the Beran Island Resort, Martin Daly joins us to chat about his greatest finds as a treasure diver, the best session he’s ever witnessed, two horrifying days at sea where he thought the ship was going to split in two, and he addresses accusations that he’s … Continue reading "281 – Martin Daly" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

TK Brimer, owner of the iconic Newport Beach surf shop The Froghouse, joins us to talk about surf retail’s importance to surf culture. He discusses juggling debt, managing millennial employees, ignoring eComm, and helping birth surf brands (like Volcom). This is part 1 of 5 of our limited run series #TemplesOfStoke presented by @SurfingHeritage Enjoy! … Continue reading "280 – The Frog House: TK Brimer" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Welcome back to Post-Script, a quick overview of each event on the WSL championship tour. Today, a review of the off season and recap of the Corona Open JBay. Supported by Finatic.com, use promo code “podcast” to support this show and get your first month free. This 6th event of the season marks the halfway … Continue reading "279 – Post-Script: Corona Open JBay" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

A conversation with filmmaker Justin Purser, CJ Hobgood, and Damien Hobgood about their new documentary that traces the Hobgood’s early life, professional surf careers, development of their respective families, and ultimately, their journey through identity. Purser shares his background in music video and outlines the limitations of making a surf film in 2019. This episode … Continue reading "278 – And Two If By Sea" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Jason Stevenson sits near the top of the heap of shortboard surfboard manufactures worldwide. Parko’s ridden JS nearly his entire career, Julian and Sally are aiming for a title this year on JS sleds. Jason shares his origin story, his struggles and the factors that led to his success, and he predicts the next great … Continue reading "277 – Jason Stevenson: JS Industries" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Chris Stone is taking time off from traveling as Jordy Smith’s coach to fulfill this patriotic opportunity to head coach the US Olympic team. In today’s episode Stone outlines surfing in the Olympics, shares concerns, and survey’s how this growth potential might alter the core of surfing.  Follow @CGDSurf and @USASurfing View this post on … Continue reading "276 – Chris ‘Gally’ Stone: US Olympic Head Coach" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Welcome back to Post-Script, a quick overview of each event on the WSL championship tour. Today, a review of the off season and recap of the Oi Rio Pro. Supported by Finatic.com, use promo code “podcast” to support this show and get your first month free. I started off our Post-Script to the Maragret River … Continue reading "275 – Post-Script: Oi Rio Pro 2019" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode David chats with Andrew Kidman and Ellis Ericson about their new film “On The Edge Of A Dream”. The film documents five years of experimentation and development of the Edge design. The conversation begins 30 years ago, when George Greenough began sharing stories with Kidman about the greatest wave he had ridden … Continue reading "274 – On The Edge Of A Dream" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Heavy Water is Michael Oblowitz’s new film centered around Nathan Fletcher’s most significant traumas and his most meaningful accomplishments. In today’s episode Oblowitz details the long and storied history of drugs with the surf industry, the film he made about it, and why that film has never been released. Fletcher discusses why he’s trusted his … Continue reading "273 – Nathan Fletcher & Michael Oblowitz: Heavy Water" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Former personal photographer to Sean “Puffy” Combs, Justin Jay has spent the past 10 years traveling from NYC to the North Shore in December to document the denizens who congregate for the Pipe Masters. Snippets of his work has been published each season, but the majority has been reserved for an archive piece, a book, … Continue reading "272 – Justin Jay: HI1K" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Welcome back to Post-Script, a quick overview of each event on the WSL championship tour. Today, a review of the off season and recap of the Maragaret River Pro. Supported by Finatic.com, use promo code “podcast” to support this show and get your first month free. View this post on Instagram By the numbers #TheMargaretRiverPro … Continue reading "271 – Post-Script: Margaret River Pro" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Innovative photographer and filmmaker Tony Roberts packed his boards and camera gear and drove from Santa Cruz, California to Santa Cruz, Costa Rica 30 years ago to pursue a surf centered life. In today’s show he talks about adapting his career due to surf media’s instability, the exponential growth of surf tourism in Costa Rica, … Continue reading "270 – Tony Roberts" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Welcome back to Post-Script, a quick overview of each event on the WSL championship tour. Today, a review of the off season and recap of the Corona Bali Protected. Supported by Finatic.com, use promo code “podcast” to support this show and get your first month free. Coming from Bells Beach, John had leapt into first … Continue reading "269 – Post-Script: Corona Bali Protected" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

The enigmatic MC returns to discuss the aftermath from his first podcast appearance, Sunny Garcia, the concept of “sustainability” in surfboards, the 2019 Bells Beach Pro, and how confronting vulnerability is allowing him dispel past trauma. It’s a a doozy of an episode. Strap in. If you need help and guidance managing depression please refer … Continue reading "268 – Maurice Cole: Part 2" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Iconic Queensland shaper Dick Van Straalen shares his origin story and details how living with dyslexia has informed his surfing and surfboard building. He discusses helpful treatment strategies and explains how his acute mindset has empowered him to pioneer material usage and design theory for the past 60 years. Follow @Dick.VanStraalen and https://www.dickvanstraalen.com/ Today’s show … Continue reading "267 – Dick Van Straalen" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Welcome back to Post Script, a quick overview of each event on the WSL championship tour. Today, a review of the off season and recap of the Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach. Supported by Finatic.com, use promo code “podcast” to support this show and get your first month free. Coming off of the Snapper event, … Continue reading "266 – Post Script: Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

David visits the Gold Coast of Australia to chat with Scott Fenton of Kinaroad to learn about their shaping robot and their plans to fortify domestic board building, increase wages for laminators, eliminate inefficiencies in the traditional board building model, and improve replicability for higher volume board brands. Enjoy! Visit Kinaroad.com And support enter to … Continue reading "265 – Kinaroad’s Shaping Robot" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

After a three year walkabout in his mid twenties, Quiet Flight’s lead shaper Bruce Ragan returned to shaping with a revitalized passion that has fueled his craft for the past thirty years. In today’s episode he discusses the perils that face teen pro-am surfers, competing with oversized retailers in Cocoa Beach, how real estate development … Continue reading "264 – Bruce Ragan of Quiet Flight Surfboards" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

NYC painter Richard Phillips found surfing later in life. He restructured his life to accommodate his newfound obsession and in the last two decades surfing has inextricably informed his work and his relationships. In today’s show Phillips discusses working with Andy Warhol, making a surf film with Lindsey Lohan, surfing Pipeline for the first time, … Continue reading "263 – NYC Artist Richard Phillips" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Welcome back to Post Script, a quick overview of each event on the WSL championship tour. Today, a review of the off season and recap of the Quiksilver Pro Gold Coast. Supported by Finatic.com, use promo code “podcast” to support this show and get your first month free. When we signed off the 2018 season, … Continue reading "262 – Post Script: Quiksilver Pro Gold Coast" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode Darren Handley of DHD Surfboards details his first encounters with Stephanie Gilmore and Mick Fanning, he explains the challenges of scaling his business internationally and why he’s chosen to outsource some of his manufacturing. He explains how a new shaping robot has improved his business and his 5 years plan to in … Continue reading "261 – Darren Handley" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

At the age of 22, Brett Connellan was surfing his local beach when he suffered the intense impact from the jaws of a Great White shark. Through the attack, Brett lost the majority of his left thigh and sustained serious damage to his hand, but he also gained a profoundly empowering perspective that has allowed … Continue reading "260 – Shark Attack Survivor: Brett Connellan" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Australian surf writer Nick Carroll inquires about all things asymmetry with South African board builder Donald Brink. Nick’s been quietly surveying the broad acceptance of asymmetrical board design in the US and he quizzes Donald on design theory, Australia’s late acceptance, design limitations, and whether or not symmetrical boards have ever even existed. Enjoy! Follow … Continue reading "259 – Nick Carroll and Donald Brink" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Florida board builder Ricky Carroll illuminates the pioneers of Brevard County whom paved his path while sharing his origin story, his tribulations as a mechanic, and how licensing other board labels has allowed RC Surfboards to thrive. Enjoy! Follow @RickyCarrollSurfboards and @SurfSplendor Here’s the USA Today article where Ricky returns the stolen board to board … Continue reading "258 – Ricky Carroll" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Australian writer and surf media mainstay Sean Doherty has become the unintentional tip of the spear in a public fight against a giant oil company. In today’s show he details the #FightForTheBight and misinformation that all Australian’s need to know. We then discuss his outlook on printed surf media and what adjustments will be required … Continue reading "257 – Sean Doherty" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

English professor and surfboard shaper Charles Mencel talks about rescuing drunken tourists from pounding surf at the Jersey shore, crafting literary-minded college students, managing time for maximum efficiency, and value of building boards for local community. Enjoy! Follow @Mencel_Surfboards and purchase through BarewireSurfShop.com View this post on Instagram Professor Mencel, between classes and saving drunken … Continue reading "256 – Charles Mencel: Shaper and English Professor" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Josh Kerr launched on to the world scene with two Air Show World Championships before the age of 20. After suffering a severe leg break he reset and found a home on the World Tour. During those 7 years, Josh’s family traveled with him and he developed a passion for entrepreneurship. Upon retiring from competition … Continue reading "255 – Josh Kerr" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In the new film, “Thank You, Mother”, Ishka Folkwell showcases Torren Martyn’s surfing on Simon Jones boards to craft an abstract narrative which highlighting that life design and board design are at their fullest expression when simplicity is employed. Torren and Ishka chat with David about the film, collaborating with Albe Falzon, and how to connect … Continue reading "254 – Torren Martyn and Ishka Folkwell" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode we chat with Grain Surfboards co-founder Mike LaVecchia. Based in York, Maine, Grain builders hollow, framed, locally sourced wood surfboards. Mike’s background in boat building and his reverence for historic surf craft positioned him uniquely to push hollow framed board construction into a new design era. He chats about the value of … Continue reading "253 – Grain Surfboards: Mike LaVecchia" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Recorded at Surf Expo 2019, David Lee Scales and Chas Smith discuss new opportunities for brands to communicate their messaging through podcasting and how they utilize the Surf Splendor podcast network to access a broader audience, tell richer stories, and actively engage their fans. Topics covered include; podcasting 101, the anti-commercial, the value of intimacy, … Continue reading "Bonus – 252 – Building Brand Awareness Through Podcasting" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Founder of one of surfing’s most famous social media profiles BoardPorn, Ron Shine discusses his start as an anonymous surfboard hoarder, the responsibility that comes with influence, his anti-advertising model, and he shares his thoughts on the imported surfboard debate. Also, author of Ice Cream Headaches, Ed Thompson joins us. Enjoy the show! Follow @BoardPorn … Continue reading "251 – BoardPorn" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

San Diego band of surfers “Switchfoot” has sold millions of albums and won a Grammy over the past 20 years. I chatted with them on the eve of the release of their 11th album to discuss Gabriel Medina’s Pipe Master’s domination, prioritizing swell with work and family life, shaping surfboards, and how to honor one’s … Continue reading "250 – Switchfoot" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode Derek Hynd recounts his professional history and offers lessons for how surfing can learn past mistakes. He tells the vivid details of losing his eye (and permanent eyesight) while surfing heat. He spills the sordid details of his little black book (all 4 of them). He explains how he invented “The Search” … Continue reading "249 – Derek Hynd" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode Maurice Cole contemplates recent tragedy and candidly laments compromising his integrity to chase business goals. He shares the story of a business failure and how the associated stress led to his body developing cancer. He explains why every surf brand has failed after going public and how he’s personally lost millions of … Continue reading "248 – Maurice Cole" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Filmmaker Michael Zimbalist talks about the process and journey to make Momentum Generation. From 9 hour interviews with Kelly Slater, which characters and storylines got cut, Michael Zimbalist reveals gossip he unearthed within the hundreds of hours of archived Taylor Steele footage, and why HBO was interested in helping share a surf story. This interview … Continue reading "247 – Momentum Generation director Michael Zimbalist" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

? The Outer Banks are barrier islands off the coast of the US state of North Carolina, separating the Atlantic Ocean from the mainland. They are a 200 mile long sand bar that are constantly changing with storms and general tides that shift the sand. It’s home to some of the best waves on the … Continue reading "246 – Mike Rowe: Hooked Surfboards" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Surfboard shaper Donald Brink has been a recurring guest on this show. Donny sustained a significant injury while surfing recently and it’s inspired him reexamine life’s pieces. In today’s show, I chat with Donny about the setback, how it’s propelling him forward, and he takes us along to South Africa to track down the person … Continue reading "245 – Donald Brink" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Today’s episode was recorded in the home of Jamie Brisick, which has since been vanquished by the Malibu fires. We’re replaying this episode in homage to Jamie’s home and anyone who lost their home in the California fires. Consider supporting the rebuilding efforts by donating to the Wildfire Relief Fund. Thank you and enjoy today’s … Continue reading "244 – Jamie Brisick" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Jeff Timpone has been building surfboards for 50 years. Not only is he one of the world’s most experienced shapers, he’s also on the cutting edge of sustainable surfboard manufacturing. In today’s show Jeff discusses his moral conflict about leaving California to surf Hawaii during the Vietnam draft. He reflects on early experiences with iconic … Continue reading "243 – Jeff Timpone" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Matt Meola is among the top aerialist in the world. He surfs Jaws. He’s a commercial fisherman and recreational bow hunter. He went to high-school with Willie Nelson’s kids. He’s one of the most interesting and talented surfers in the world, in his prime, and in today’s conversation we chat about the challenges he faces … Continue reading "242 – Matt Meola" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In part four of On Boards Ryan Martz explains the health and environmental concerns of glassing surfboards and breaks down wages for surfboard laborers. Parmenter further illuminates the economics of board building, why some surfboard manufacturing has been outsourced, the strengths and weaknesses of that business model as well as the environmental, health, and economic … Continue reading "241 – On Boards with Dave Parmenter and Ryan Martz: Part Four" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

? In part three of On Boards, we meet master laminator Doug Fletcher (aka Fletch). Last week Dave Parmenter began to explain what happens after a surfboard is shaped. This week we Fletch and Parmenter detail vacuum bagging, what causes delamination, the pros and cons of polyester resin versus epoxy regarding strength, longevity, and health … Continue reading "240 – On Boards with Dave Parmenter (& Fletch): Part Three" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In part two of On Boards, Dave Parmenter walks us through the process of ordering a surfboard. He then illuminates some of the health and environmental concerns with working with foam, why it’s important for board builders to shift their focus towards conservation, and we begin to unpack the details of laminating. Enjoy! Dave Parmenter … Continue reading "239 – On Boards with Dave Parmenter: Part Two" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Introducing part one of On Boards with Dave Parmenter. This conversation began when Parmenter sent me an email after listening to my episode with Greg Martz of the Waterman’s Guild. Dave has been on the show 3 times prior and while we always discussed surfboard design, we had left some very large gaps of information … Continue reading "238 – On Boards with Dave Parmenter: Part One" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Welcome to back to Creators & Innovators presented by Vissla. Each month we seek to distill the character traits, motivations, and the daily rituals of creatives in hopes of developing a blueprint for how to disrupt norms, innovate, and creator in one’s own space. Today we focus our attention on a specific trend that is … Continue reading "003 – Wave Pools: A Tidal Surge" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Welcome back to Post Script, a quick concise overview of each event on the WSL championship tour. Today, a recap of the Surf Ranch Pro and review John John Florence’s new film, “Space”. Supported by Finatic.com, use promo code “podcast” to support this show and get your first month free. The 2018 Surf Ranch Pro … Continue reading "237 – Post Script: Surf Ranch Pro & Space" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Welcome to Off Script presented by Hurley; behind the scenes at the Surf Ranch Pro (also) presented by Hurley. Today we catch insights from finalist Sebastien Zietz, 2018 Rookie of the Year hopeful Wade Carmichael, two groms who just won golden tickets to surf, Nick Carroll spills insider gossip about Surf Ranch rental fees and … Continue reading "236 – Off Script, Day 4: Hurley Surf Ranch Pro" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Welcome to Off Script presented by Hurley; behind the scenes conversations with the athletes, coaches, and WSL team at the Surf Ranch Pro (also) presented by Hurley. Today we meet a Pismo Beach surfer who drove inland to gamble at Tachi and witness surf history. Nick Carroll and Chas Smith debate the merits of … Continue reading "235 – Off Script, Day 3: Hurley Surf Ranch Pro" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Welcome to Off Script presented by Hurley; behind the scenes conversations with the athletes, coaches, and WSL team at the Surf Ranch Pro (also) presented by Hurley. Today we meet the only permament resident of Surf Ranch, a 20 year old who was taught to surf by Raimana 3 years and now gets shacked on … Continue reading "234 – Off Script, Day 2: Hurley Surf Ranch Pro" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Welcome to Off Script presented by Hurley; behind the scenes conversations with the athletes, coaches, and WSL team at the Surf Ranch Pro (also) presented by Hurley. Today we delve into the history of Lemoore, chat about Kelly’s home court advantage, and this event will influence ocean events. We chat with Rosey Hodge, Alex Gray, … Continue reading "233 – Off Script, Day 1: Hurley Surf Ranch Pro" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Lead designer at Channel Islands Surfboards, lead pastor at Reality family of churches, Britt Merrick talks about his role shaping boards for World Tour athletes, how losing a daughter challenges one’s faith, and how to scale a business globally without sacrificing quality and family values. Enjoy. Follow @CISurfboards and CISurfboards.com This episode was sponsored … Continue reading "232 – Britt Merrick" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Mick Fanning is equally well-known for his 3 world titles as he is for overcoming adversity. He lost a brother at age 16, recovered from a potentially career ending injury at 23, and at the age of 34, survived a shark attack and lost another brother on the morning of the finals where the fate … Continue reading "231 – Mick Fanning" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Welcome back to the 5 Minute Recap. A quick concise overview of each event on the WSL championship tour. Today, a recap of the Tahiti Pro Teahupo’o. Supported by Finatic.com, use promo code “podcast” to support this show and get your first month free. All eyes were on Filipe Toledo as we approached the 2018 … Continue reading "230 – 5 Minute Recap: Tahiti Pro" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Today’s episode is an analysis of the history and design of the Groveler surfboard. Experts enlisted herein are Britt Merrick of Channel Islands Surfboards, Tim Stamps of Stamps Surfboards, Matt Parker from Album Surfboards, and Dane Hantz of Vulcan Surfboards. They detail the Grovel’s origin, application, outline, contours, fin set-up, and the unique role the … Continue reading "229 – How To: Grovel" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Welcome back to Creators & Innovators, where we seek to distill the character traits, motivations, and the daily rituals of creatives in hopes of developing a blueprint for how to disrupt norms and innovate in one’s own space. Today we bring a conversation with surfboard shaper Christine Brailsford Caro. Christine shares how her early … Continue reading "228 – Christine Brailsford Caro of Furrow Surfcraft" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Welcome back to the 5 Minute Recap. A quick concise overview of each event on the WSL championship tour. Today, a recap of the Vans US Open of Surfing. Supported by Finatic.com, use promo code “podcast” to support this show and get your first month free. The 2018 US Open of Surfing at Huntington Beach, … Continue reading "227 – 5 Minute Recap: Vans US Open of Surfing" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

10 years ago, at the age of 22, Dave Allee signed the lease to a retail space on Newport Blvd. He partnered with surfboard shaper Griffin Neumann-Kyle to launch Almond Surfboards, built in the traditional of classic California surf brands, but forward thinking and community focused. In today’s show we discuss brand building, burnout, managing … Continue reading "226 – Almonds Surfboards, Dave Allee" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Welcome to Creators & Innovators. Each month we’ll seek to distill the character traits, motivations, and the daily rituals of creatives in hopes of developing a blueprint for how to disrupt norms and innovate in one’s own space. Today we bring a conversation with professional surfer, journalist, and PhD chemist, Cliff Kapono. Dr. Kapono shares … Continue reading "225 – Introducing Creators & Innovators" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Welcome back to the 5 Minute Recap. A quick, concise overview of each event on the WSL championship tour. Today, a recap of the Corona Open J-Bay. Supported by Finatic.com, use promo code “podcast” to support this show and get your first month free. The 2018 Corona Open J-Bay. Oh my. Occasionally this happens for … Continue reading "224 – 5 Minute Recap: Corona Open J-Bay" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Today’s episode is with Dr. Aaron James. A Harvard PhD, professor and chair of philosophy at UC Irvine, James is a lifelong surfer and the author of the new book “Surfing With Sartre: An Aquatic Inquiry Into A Life of Meaning”. The book examines our current era of leisure, the value of centering one’s … Continue reading "224 – Aaron James, PhD: Surfing with Sartre" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

How does one make a living as a professional free surfer today? Alex Gray unpacks the tribulations and rewards of chasing swell around the world. Do pro surfers pay for photographers travel? Who finances the safety teams? Where can you sell photos nowadays? How do professionals recoup the investment of surf travel? Alex reveals all, … Continue reading "223 – Alex Gray" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Whilst we watched these massive waves barreling on our tiny hand held screens around the world, the warrior wrestled his broken heart over the ledge and locked into another lifetime wave. Because bravery was backed by preparation and a spiritual yearning for the big picture within his soul. Dane unwraps his mindset and describes the … Continue reading "222 – Dane Gudauskas Unpacks After Fiji" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Donald Brink is a lead proponent of asymmetrical surfboard design. A designer since youth, Donald paints, makes plywood fins, and as a surfboard shaper he believes that all board designs can be enhanced with asymmetrical adjustments. On today’s show Donald unveils his new collaboration board with Channel Islands and his new podcast venture, Swell … Continue reading "221 – Donald Brink: Swell With My Soul" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Welcome back to the 5 Minute Recap. A quick concise overview of each event on the WSL championship tour. Today, a recap of the Corona Bali Pro-tected. Supported by Finatic.com, use promo code “podcast” to support this show and get your first month free. The 2018 Corona Bali Pro-tected, a new name to a not … Continue reading "220 – 5 Minute Recap: Corona Bali Protected" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Dave Prodan of the WSL weighs-in on the biggest pro surf headlines from this first half of 2018; the reasons behind the Margaret River cancellation, whether Kelly will get an injury wildcard in 2019 despite his freesurf exploits, whether the WSL will mandate a standard in the 360 vs 540 debate, Waco’s affect on Surf … Continue reading "219 – Dave Prodan of the WSL" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Santa Cruz board builder Travis Reynolds is the 2018 winner of the Icons of Foam shaping competition. In today’s episode Travis opens up about the perils of rapid growth, the value of shaping machines, exploring asymmetry, and growing up riding big boards during Santa Cruz’s high-performance heyday. Enjoy! Today’s studio A post shared by David … Continue reading "218 – Travis Reynolds" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Welcome back to the 5 Minute Recap. A quick concise overview of each event on the WSL championship tour. Today, a recap of the Oi Rio Pro. Supported by Finatic.com, use promo code “podcast” to support this show and get your first month free. The 2018 Oi Rio Pro is the single greatest Brazil WCT … Continue reading "217 – 5 Minute Recap: Oi Rio Pro" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Apple called him “a pioneer with profound impact” and Newsweek magazine said he “changed the public face of graphic design”. In 1991 David Carson redesigned Surfer Magazine and established a now iconic graphic design style seated in raw human emotion. That work led to numerous awards and an expansive client list that includes Audi, … Continue reading "216 – David Carson" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Greg Martz founded The Waterman’s Guild in 1983. In the past 35 years it’s become renowned as one of the world’s leading surfboard glass shops; glassing boards for everyone from Dale Velzy, to Lightning Bolt, to Channel Islands and Rusty. In today’s episode Greg explains how one bad fall on a skimboard led him to … Continue reading "215 – Greg Martz of The Waterman’s Guild" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Today Chas and David discuss The Year of The Snake and why Jake Patterson is the most disruptive coach in surfing, they critique current hair styles trending on the top 32, analyze potentially racist surf etymology, and discuss how to extort rich tourists. Plus everyone’s favorite game, Barrel or Nah? Enjoy! Follow @ReportsFromHell and @SurfSplendor … Continue reading "019 – The Grit! April 23, 2018" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Introducing the 5 minute contest recap. All the important details (sans the lulls between sets) that transpired during the 2018 Margaret River Pro. Fights, sharks, and a 24-way tie. Bite sized, potent, and straight to the blood stream. Enjoy! The 5 Minute Recap is made possible by Finatic.com. Use promo code “podcast” to support this … Continue reading "214 – 5 Minute Recap: Margaret River Pro" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Roger Hinds’ 40 year mantra, “Built by One Pair of Hands” was challenged last week when his glass shop closed. In today’s episode we discuss the new economics of board building, why some surfboard brands have outsourced manufacturing, how that has affected the surfboard industry in Southern California, and what’s next for Roger Hinds … Continue reading "213 – Roger Hinds and the State of Board Building" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Introducing the 5 minute contest recap. Today we’ll bring you all the important details (sans the lulls between sets) that transpired during the 2018 Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach. Bite sized, potent, and straight to the blood stream. Enjoy! The 5 Minute Recap is made possible by Finatic.com. Use promo code “podcast” to support … Continue reading "212 – 5 Minute Recap: Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Today’s conversation is with San Diego surfboard shaper Josh Hall. Josh discusses starting his career at the very bottom (ding repair), studying Spanish literature, detouring through Europe to import wine, surviving situational depression, rediscovering surfing and he explains why Skip Frye wears a fanny pack. Enjoy! We also chat with Maui shaper Jeff Timpone to … Continue reading "211 – Josh Hall" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Today’s episode is with 4-time kneeboard world champion and WSL commentator Gigs Cellier. Gigs shares stories from his life in South Africa, witnessing Tom Curren’s famous first wave at JBay, participating in Jordy’s ascent to greatness, he was in the commentary booth for Mick Fanning’s shark encounter, and he explains why South Africa is still … Continue reading "210 – WSL Commentator Gigs Celliers" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode we catch up with surfboard shaper Josh Martin. Josh is carrying on a family legacy of shaping, started by his father Terry Martin and uncle Mickey Munoz. Terry is credited as having shaped more surfboards than any other human (estimated around 80,000) and built boards for Gerry Lopez, Wayne Bartholomew, Shaun Tomson, … Continue reading "209 – Josh Martin" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode, David is in the hot seat. Tyler Breuer from Swell Season was visiting from NYC and took the lead position to interview David about his origin story, his relationships with Scott Bass and Chas Smith, and his 5 year plan for Surf Splendor. David also takes a few minutes to catch with … Continue reading "208 – David on Swell Season and Rob Colby of Need Essentials" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

The Grit! with Chas Smith is now exclusively available on it’s own podcast feed. Pull up your app, search “The Grit” and click subscribe so that you never miss an episode. This week we console each other about divorce, Chas finds out he has skin cancer, and we solve all of the surf world’s biggest problems. … Continue reading "Get The Grit! on it’s own podcast feed!" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Dave Prodan is the SVP of Global Brand Identity for the World Surf League. He’s been with the organization since 2005 and has evolved through various roles and has helped shape the WSL as we experience it today. On today’s show, Prodan provides insights into the changes to the 2018 ‘CT season, addresses rumors, makes … Continue reading "207 – Dave Prodan from the World Surf League" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s salacious episode of The Grit!, Chas and David discuss Ashton’s police report and the fallout involved with sending a Sheriff to the Surfrider Foundation’s offices, backroom deals on the North Shore and its relation to police corruption in Honolulu, plus sexbots, Shaun White, and so much more! Take the candy! Support Surfrider.org and … Continue reading "015 – The Grit! February 19, 2018" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Today’s episode is with master laminator Alex “Superwolf” Villalobos. Superwolf laminates for Ryan Burch, Joel Tudor, Jeff McCallum, and is well renowned as one of surfing’s finest laminators and resin colorists. Superwolf not only shares his origin story, but also illuminates what you should look for when you purchase a surfboard, how to order a … Continue reading "205 – Superwolf" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode of The Grit! Chas and David reflect on #DebateGate and ponder the fallacy of bad publicity. They also discuss their experiences at Surf Ranch, analyze the WSL’s $30 million dollar Facebook partnership and their withdrawal from Hawai’i, and Chas pleads for bartending work. Oh, and a round of everyone’s favorite game, Barrel … Continue reading "014 – The Grit! February 5, 2018" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Well, the secret is out. On November 21st, 2017 I surfed Kelly’s Surf Ranch with 14 friends and members of surf media. In today’s episode I recap the day with two of the attendees, writers Jamie Brisick and Matt Warshaw. We discuss the mechanics of the wave itself, how much we’d pay to surf it … Continue reading "203 – Surf Ranch with Jamie Brisick & Matt Warshaw" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode we wax on with superstar photographer, Clark Little. Clark shares his origin story, explains why he gave up surfing, details how he became friends with the prince of Dubai, and how a $200,000 gamble has altered the course of his life. Enjoy! Follow @ClarkLittle and ClarkLittlePhotography.com And watch Clark’s “Shorebreak” series on … Continue reading "202 – Clark Little" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode we chat with surfboard shaper Manny Caro. Manny shares his origin story, how nature informs his surfboard design theory, formative experiences with Rich Pavel and Marc Andreini, the importance of sourcing locally made building materials, and how to cultivate sustainable growth in a business. Enjoy! Visit MandalaCustomShapes.com and follow @SwallowTailSociety Twelve years ago … Continue reading "201 – Manny Caro" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Today’s episode is a heated debate between surf media’s Ashton Goggans from Stab Magazine and Chas Smith from BeachGrit. Topics range from the professional to the very personal and tempers flare into a physical altercation (33 minute mark!). Chas’s mudslinging tactics, Stab’s comments section, deleted articles, payment withholdings from advertisers, it’s all covered here. Welcome … Continue reading "013 – Debate: Surf Media, Chas vs. Ashton" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Jamie Brisick is a former pro surfer turned writer. He was awarded the Fulbright Scholarship in 2008. His stories have appeared in The New York Times, The Guardian, The Surfer’s Journal. He’s written 3 books, his most recent “Becoming Westerly” tells the true story of Australian surfing champion Peter Drouyn transitioning to Westerly Windina. Jamie … Continue reading "199 – Jamie Brisick" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

It’s John John Day! Join Chas and David as they celebrate JJF’s 2nd World Title, JFlo’s 2nd Pipe Masters win, and Dirty Gabe’s perennial villain status. The boys discuss why God forsaked Gabriel, why the WSL judges need to stay in Santa Monica all year long, the break-up of surfing’s biggest power couple, and why … Continue reading "198 – The Grit! December 19, 2017" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode we Wax On with Matt Warshaw. Matt tells us his origin story, what compelled him to chronicle surfing’s history, the value of distancing one’s self from the act of surfing, while he gave away all his surfboards, and what’s next for the Encyclopedia of Surfing. Enjoy! Support the Encyclopedia of Surfing by … Continue reading "197 – Matt Warshaw: The Encyclopedia of Surfing" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode of The Grit! David and Chas discuss what price would be required for them to sell-out to traditional surf media, why Wade Carmichael will dominate 2018, they implore Joe Turpel to learn how to Omoplata, and discuss the ethics of telling someone to “suck a dick”. Take the candy! FOLLOW UP Surfrider … Continue reading "012 – The Grit! with Chas Smith, December 6, 2017" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Today we Wax On with “the most interesting surfer in the world” (according to Surfing Magazine), Dave Parmenter. Dave responds to the public’s perception of him being a curmudgeon, he recounts the time he rode a longboard in the OP Pro, he explains his current exploration of foil surfing, dissects fin design and set-up, and … Continue reading "195 – Dave Parmenter" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

The most important detail about today’s episode of The Grit! is that David and Chas solve of all surfing’s race relations. You’re welcome. Additionally, Chas explains his falling out with Morgan Maassen and why he wants to buy an SUP. David then shares the joys of surfing naked and novelty waves. Take the candy! FOLLOW … Continue reading "011 – The Grit! November 21, 2017" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

The release of The Seawolf marks the debut of a very talented artist. As a musician, a cinematographer, a director, and as a storyteller, Ben Gulliver delivers one of the best surf films of 2017. In today’s episode of Wax On, we chat about how Ben journeyed from the Canadian skate scene into surfing, how to … Continue reading "193 – The Seawolf, Ben Gulliver" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Today’s episode of The Grit! is brought to you by you, the listener! The entire episode was crafted from user submitted comments, emails, and DMs. What starts as lighthearted quickly devolves into a therapy session where both David and Chas question their surfing abilities, their reasons for surfing, and their entire life’s path. It’s a … Continue reading "010 – The Grit! November 6, 2017" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Today’s episode is engineered with auditory sensitization systems with hollow fiber ear canal mapping designed to enhance inner cochlea stimulation! Don’t miss it! Oh, and David and Chas discuss Zach Weisberg’s hurt feelings, JJF’s secret power, and which style of tattoo is the new Tramp Stamp. Enjoy! TURMOIL IN SURF MEDIA! Stab punks The Inertia  Click … Continue reading "009 – The Grit! with Chas Smith, October 27, 2017" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Matt Calvani is the owner and head shaper of Bing Surfboards. Bing Surfboards is one of very few remaining California legacy surfboard brands. Founded in 1959 by Bing Copeland, Calvani officially partnered in the business in 2007. In today’s episode of Shaping Surfing, Calvani discusses the responsibility of fostering a legacy, the challenges of keeping … Continue reading "190 – Matt Calvani" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode of The Grit! Chas and David pay homage to the fabulous wordsmiths who market wetsuits (Technobutter!), then discuss the cancelation of The Eddie, which surf media outlet employs the finest surfers, why we’re boycotting the WSL, and why you should never put a sticker on your surfboard. Plus, a round of #KookAndCurren … Continue reading "008 – The Grit! October 9, 2017" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Ashton Goggans is a writer and the new Editor-in-Chief of Stab Magazine. Today’s conversation centers around the ever evolving media landscape, where Surfer Magazine is failing, revitalizing the importance of the cover shot, the limitations of a hi-performance shortboard focus, and how Stab will compete for relevance in the Insta-age. Enjoy! Follow @SurfSplendor and @AshtonSealegs … Continue reading "188 – Ashton Goggans of Stab Magazine" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode of Shaping Surfing with chat with North Shore shaper Jon Pyzel. From humble beginning in Santa Barbara to a life changing encounter with Alexandra Florence, Pyzel details his origin story, the inciting incidents and the motivating factors that have inspired a life dedicated to surfing. He also shares about his relationship with … Continue reading "187 – Jon Pyzel" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Shaping Surfing with Jon Pyzel is getting bumped back to next week so that we can recap the historic day that was “The Test” at Kelly Slater’s Wave Ranch. In this episode of The Grit! David and Chas discuss the emergence of elitism to surfing, the WSL’s policy to bar media from the event, surf … Continue reading "007 – The Grit! September 21, 2017" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s gargantuan sized (vodka & coco fueled) episode of Grit! David and Chas battle over who is more “racist”, they analyze whether Gerry Lopez is still able to get barreled, discuss whether it’s okay to pee in Kelly’s pool, and when it’s appropriate to tell your male friend “I love you” (spoiler alert, always). … Continue reading "006 – The Grit! September 11, 2017" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode we Wax On with San Diego mid-length impresario Devon Howard. A writer, professional surfer, marketing consultant, and surf history advocate, Devon shares how San Diego surf culture has influenced surfboard design, why surf writers are too scared to tell the truth, which surf website is akin to McDonalds, why you need an … Continue reading "184 – Devon Howard" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Today’s episode of Grit! was recorded at Album Surf in San Clemente, California where Matt Parker generously loans Chas an asymmetrical board and explains he design theory and why it’ll help Chas shred harder than ever. David and Chas then discuss purchasing and reviving the greatest surf brand of all time, whether or not to puka … Continue reading "005 – Grit! with Chas Smith, August 27, 2017" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In a very short period Ryan Lovelace has developed some of the most interesting and sought after surfboards in the market. From humble beginnings and hands-on learning, Lovelace has developed a worldwide cult-following of fans. Made entirely by hand, Lovelace Surf Crafts are an exploration of inventive lines and contours that seamlessly meld traditional design … Continue reading "182 – Ryan Lovelace" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Today we Wax On with Chris Gallagher Stone. You may have seen him in the channel during the Billabong Pro. He is a former ‘CT surfer, a surfboard shaper, and currently, Jordy Smith’s coach. We discuss why Jordy hasn’t won a world title (yet), Jordy’s new found humility, Jordy’s weaknesses, how they got Jordy to … Continue reading "181 – Coaching Jordy, Chris Gallagher Stone" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Spit! podcast is no longer available through Surf Splendor. Search “Spit Surf” in your podcast app and subscribe to the show. Thanks and shred on! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In this gargantuan sized episode of Grit, David and Chas discuss why Derek Reilly left Stab and co-founded Beach Grit, whether it’s okay for a 35 year old dad to skateboard, SUP’r fist fights, Drugs vs Booze, 360s vs 540s, why you should never wash your jeans nor tie your shoes, and things get really … Continue reading "004 – Grit! Chas Smith, August 10, 2017" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

It’s monumental episode of Spit! For the first time in 3 years of recording together, David and Scott finally go for a surf. The boys recap their session, catch up on the Puerto event, the US Open, Kelly’s wave pool opening to the public Fanning’s Soft Top venture, Dukes and Kooks and much more. Enjoy! … Continue reading "179 – Spit! August 6, 2017" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Today we Wax On with filmmaker Jack Coleman. You’ve seen his work. He makes commercial shorts for companies like Vissla and Mollusk Surf Shop. featuring surfers like Rob Machado, Alex Knost, Ryan Burch, & Ozzie Wright. Those videos are embedded all over the web. His two most recent feature length films are The Zone and Groove Move. In … Continue reading "178 – Filmmaker Jack Coleman" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Dane Hantz is a dichotomy. Creative and regimented. Thick-skinned and sensitive. His board designs are whimsical in concept and yet precisely engineered. His old-school work ethic and stringent business practices have developed a core following of customers, while his embrace of technology, social influencers (i.e. @boardporn), and photography has exposed Vulcan Surf to a worldwide … Continue reading "177 – Dane Hantz, Vulcan Surf" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

So much grit since we last met! David and Chas bite into ultra hard beach candy, the subtext, and what’s happening behind the scenes over at BeachGrit; including the firing of writer Michael Ciaramella, the ideal physique required to shred, why Pottz is breaking our hearts, and whether front traction pads are ever acceptable. Take the … Continue reading "003 – The Grit! July 24, 2017" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode of Spit! Scott and David recap the greatest surf event in recent history, The 2017 Corona Open J-Bay. Discussions include Filipe’s paradigm shifting performance, the rainstorm of 10’s, the shark frenzy, mid-wave claims to no-fame, and what new CEO Sophie Goldschmidt will bring to the WSL. We hope that you enjoy the show! … Continue reading "175 – Spit! July 20, 2017" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

We are thrilled to welcome back former guest Dave Parmenter. He first appeared in episode 101 of Surf Splendor where we outlined his biography. A former pro surfer, a surf writer, historian, and boardbuilder, Surfing Magazine once described Parmenter as “the most interesting surfing in the world.” In today’s show Dave explains how “old” surfboard designs are … Continue reading "174 – Dave Parmenter" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Today’s episode of Spit! ranges from utterly superficial to falsely existential! Strap in. David and Scott discuss Koa Rothman’s tooth-shattering (and swallowing) wipeout, female surfers popularity eclipsing males, the Freestone/Blanchard baby to be, who will win J-Bay, will our children be riding finless surfboards, and the day Jay Davies gorilla-stomped the Internet. Enjoy the show! SHAUN … Continue reading "173 – Spit! July 6, 2017" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

David and Chas answer listener inquiries, review the worst boardshorts on the market, critique Albee Layer’s musical tastes and intellect, analyze hipsters’ contributions to surfing, and then the boys seek barrel. Enjoy! Special thanks to Surfrider.org for allowing us studio space. Please consider becoming a member and helping to improve our Earth health. Click here! And visit … Continue reading "002 – The Grit! June 29, 2017" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Today’s episode of ‘Shaping Surfing’ features surfboard shaper Jeff McCallum. Jeff McCallum builds surfboards in San Diego California with an unwavering focus on quality. Quality is a word that gets thrown around pretty frivolously in surfboard building, so Jeff explains what exactly constitutes quality, it’s cost, and how to scale it with the growth of the … Continue reading "171 – Jeff McCallum" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode of Spit!, David and Scott survey Occy’s forthcoming wave pool “Surf Lakes”, analyze the OK Fiji Pro, Dane Reynold’s return to competition, and in the tradition that Scott set forth, David establishes his “Core Surf Values”. They also offer Must-See Moments, Dukes and Kooks, and much more. Enjoy! RECORD SETTING PADDLE-OUT OCCY’S … Continue reading "170 – Spit! June 21, 2017" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Chas Smith joins David Scales again to spill the gossip from over at Beach Grit. The boys ponder why no one is willing to discuss the details that surround Owen Wright’s head trauma. They then dissect Reno Abellira and Matt Warshaw’s Blood Feud, the state of women’s surfing, and Chas’s latest book and film projects. Take … Continue reading "001 – The Grit! June 12, 2017" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode of Spit!, Scott recaps his recent surf trip to Mexico where he found enlightenment and his “Core Surfing Beliefs”. The boys then analyze the tenuous link between menstruation and shark attacks, pay homage to the leaders who left us on Friday June 2nd (R.I.P. Severson and O’Neill), and then finish with Must-See … Continue reading "168 – Spit! June 6, 2017" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Today we Wax On with Keith Malloy. Keith talks about his idealogical transition as a surfer, from riding high-performance thrusters to a “ride anything” mentality and how he’s documented that evolution through film, first with “Come Hell or High Water” and now with his latest documentary release “Fishpeople”. “Fishpeople” explores the lives of 6 sea-goers; a … Continue reading "167 – Keith Malloy" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Welcome to Spit! with Scott Bass and David Lee Scales. It’s the exact same podcast you know and love (call it Down The Line, call it Surf News) where Bass and Scales spitball big ideas, spit vitriol, and discuss dudes getting spit out of waves. Spit! In today’s episode David sings the praises of the … Continue reading "166 – Spit! May, 23, 2017" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Welcome to a new show format! Caught Inside will keep you on the inside of surf industry gossip with a rotating panel of guest co-hosts. (Settle down! Bassy will be back next week with our usual show). Today’s show is co-hosted by Chris Cote. Scales and Cote recap the Oi Rio Pro and review Kelly … Continue reading "165 – Caught Inside with Chris Cote: May 17, 2017" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s experimental show format, David interviews Kyle for the first hour, then Kyle interviews David for an hour. Kyle’s a former Surf Splendor guest, host of The Kyle Thiermann Show, big wave surfer, and Patagonia ambassador. The guys chat about the Big Wave Awards, the state of women’s big wave surfing, doing ayahuasca in … Continue reading "164 – David Scales x Kyle Thiermann" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

David and Scott had their egos shattered by the Internet after the naming “non-troversy” in episode 161. Herein, David takes inventory of the broken pieces. Enjoy! This was one of the first comments I received about that show. It immediately shifted my perspective on the matter. Onward and upward! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode surf photographer Todd Glaser discusses his new project Proximity. Todd gives us a behind-the-scenes look at the 3 year production process, stories from the road with Kelly, John John, Dorian, Albee, Stephanie and Dave Rastovich. Then Todd recalls details from his most secret mission, documenting and releasing Kelly Slater’s wave pool in … Continue reading "162 – Todd Glaser: Proximity" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Someone contact BeachGrit, there’s a Blood Feud! David vs Scott! Kidding . . . kinda . . but not really. The tension boils over in today’s episode and Scott fires first! Then the boys chat about Surf News, the non-interference at Bells, protecting Hawaii’s lifeguards from frivolous lawsuits, an eye-opening/watering Kelly podcast (not ours!), Dukes … Continue reading "161 – Surf News, April 27, 2017" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode David chats with professional surfer turned filmmaker Cyrus Sutton about his new film “Island Earth”. The film takes a candid look at the agricultural industry in Hawaii and follows a young scientist’s struggle for truth between science and tradition as he enters an industry that many feel is threatening his homeland. Cyrus … Continue reading "160 – Cyrus Sutton: Island Earth" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode, David and Scott catch up on JJF’s blistering performance in WA, the budgetary cuts for the WSL, the private job description for the WSL’s CEO position, a potential 2nd Fukishima-level radioactive waste dump, Dukes and Kooks, and much more. Enjoy! DRUG AWARE MARGARET RIVER PRO JJF’s Blistering Performance JJF’s Freesurf Domination Seems … Continue reading "159 – Surf News, April 12, 2017" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Lately there has been a batch of things that never make it into the podcast; film reviews, listeners comments, corrections from previous episodes, so today’s bonus episode is meant to set those records straight. Hope you enjoy this new, experimental format. Keep the feedback coming. MULLAGHMORE A SIMPLE SOLUTION TO JUDGING Jimmicane says “Hire Ex … Continue reading "158 – A Couple Things . . ." Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode David and Scott analyze the spectacular event that was the 2017 Quiksilver Pro. The Slater vs Medina non-interference, the judges love of non-risky backside snaps, and the greatest comeback story in surfing history. We hope you enjoy the show. NEW CHANGES TO THE BROADCAST Ross is gone (to coach JJF). Kaipo is … Continue reading "157 – Quiksilver Pro Analysis" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Today’s guest is Sal Masekela. Sal is a professional broadcaster, television host, musician & television producer. He came from the surf/skate/snow world but did a brief detour into mainstream entertainment with gigs on MTV and E! Television. He’s currently a correspondent for Vice Sports and the voice of the Red Bull Signature Series. In today’s episode … Continue reading "156 – Sal Masekela" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode David and Scott analyze the upcoming 2017 WSL season and the first event at Snapper Rocks. Who will win? How will the rookies perform? Will Mick and Owen return to their world title contention? Who will be Duke? And who will be Kook? So much fodder! Enjoy! FOLLOW UP Alex Gray’s POV … Continue reading "155 – 2017 WSL Season Analysis" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In this week’s show David and Scott catch up on their recent travels, the plethora of surf films washing through the Internets (Former, The Smiling Bag, Julian’s “Wayward”, etc), the upcoming 2017 WSL season and their loss of their title sponsor, Dukes and Kooks and much more. Enjoy! THE UPCOMING WSL SEASON The WSL loses … Continue reading "154 – Surf News, March 6, 2017" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

This week’s guest is unflinching big-wave surfer, champion spear fisherman, and part time Hollywood stuntman Mark Healey. He’s a perennial invitee to the Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau contest at Waimea Bay, and winner of the 2010 Todos Santos Big Wave Event. Healey won the 2009 Billabong XXL Monster Tube Award for getting shacked … Continue reading "153 – Mark Healey" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In this week’s episode of Surf News, David and Scott discuss the bankruptcy of the Titans of Mavericks, Kelly and Joel’s retirement announcements, RedBull’s new standard of broadcasting, and whether or not Lakey will be the first female to nail a full rotor. Enjoy! FOLLOW UP Zuck concedes to Kauaiian tradition. Link to article David’s … Continue reading "152 – Surf News, February 6, 2017" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Today’s episode comes to you in two parts; the first 30 minutes is a follow-up conversation with surfboard shaper Roger Hinds discussing The Dream Fish that he shaped for David. In the second part of the show, David and Scott discuss the closure of Surfing Magazine, Paul Speakers’ departure from the WSL, Kalani Chapman’s near-drowning … Continue reading "151 – Roger Hinds & Surf News, January 24, 2017" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Today’s guest is The Surfrider Foundation’s CEO, Dr. Chad Nelsen. Chad shares his origin story, the development of Surfrider from it’s founding 3 surfers to it’s current 250,000 activists, some of the organizations biggest wins, and their top initiatives for 2017. Enjoy! Visit Surfrider.org and support it here. Meet Surfrider’s New CEO: Chad Nelsen from … Continue reading "150 – Surfrider CEO, Dr. Chad Nelsen" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s show David and Scott discuss Paul Speaker’s departure from the WSL, Gabriel Media’s Surf Institute, a new Guinness Record in surfing, competing surf podcasts, the “Ride Anything” event at Lunada Bay, and Kepa Acero’s neck-breaking wipeout at Mundaka. We hope you enjoy! PAUL SPEAKER STEPS DOWN FROM CEO POSITION AT THE WSL Full … Continue reading "149 – Surf News, January 11, 2017" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode David and Scott discuss the highest paid surfers of 2016, recap the Pipe Masters & the Nazare Challenge, and Scott dissects a recent altercation he had in the lineup and reevaluates his entire intention as a surfer. We’re ending 2016 with some deep talk 🙂 We hope you enjoy! THE PIPEMASTERS Congrats … Continue reading "148 – Surf News, December 31, 2016" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s show David and Scott discuss the Surfer Awards, the controversy of the Triple Crown, a marijuana friendly house on the North Shore (and it’s guests), the Pipe Masters, Dukes and Kooks and much more. Enjoy! THE SURFER AWARDS Benji Weatherly’s comedy on the red carpet was a highlight. Eddie If bombed hard! ( … Continue reading "147 – Surf News, December 12, 2016" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In the first half of today’s episode, David discusses Need Wetsuits with Rob Colby. They chat about the direct-to-consumer business model, the equitability of high-salaried surf stars, and Rob lends insight into Dane Reynolds’ Chapter 11 based on his years as an executive at Quiksilver. In the second half of the show (36 minute mark) … Continue reading "146 – Pre Pipe Masters Analysis & Rob Colby of Need Wetsuits" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In this week’s episode, David and Scott discuss the world’s newest surf spots, Jeff Clark’s inside scoop on the Titan’s of Mavericks controversy, Dane Reynolds’ seminal new film ‘Chapter 11’, the documentary that details the murder of Ricardo dos Santos, Albee’s backside double-spin, Dukes and Kooks and much, much more! Enjoy! NEW ZEALAND SPROUTS BRAND … Continue reading "145 – Surf News, November 30, 2016" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Surfer/Shaper Wayne Rich is the subject of today’s episode of Surf Splendor. Wayne was inducted into the International Surfboard Builder Hall of Fame last week and he’s a 2x Icons of Foam winner. In this episode Wayne details his childhood in Hermosa Beach during the heyday of Noll, Bing, and Weber. He unpacks asymmetrical board … Continue reading "144 – Wayne Rich" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Massive waves have been crashing on multiple coasts in the Pacific ocean. David and Scott discuss Mavericks, Jaws, the first ever women’s Big Wave World Tour event, the Triple Crown, and the closing of the NLand Surf Park weeks before Scott’s trip. Enjoy the show! Scott and David have been enjoying an epic run of swell … Continue reading "143 – Surf News, November 16, 2016" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Surfboard shaper Marc Andreini is our guest on today’s episode of Surf Splendor. Marc discusses his formative experiences surfing with George Greenough, Phil Edwards, and Margo Oberg. He also explains the design theory of the displacement hull and the Edge board. Andreini also shares about a book that he’ll be releasing next year documenting his … Continue reading "142 – Marc Andreini" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Surf Splendor is now accepting donations. Any amount is appreciated but we suggest a monthly, recurring donation of $5. Click the button! Thanks! In today’s episode, David and Scott discuss the end of the Quiksilver Eddie event, JJF’s world title victory, an all women’s Maverick’s contest, Scott’s upcoming trip to the NLand wave park, and … Continue reading "141 – Surf News, October 31, 2016" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode, David chats with Kyle Thiermann about transitioning $300 million dollars from corporate banks into small banks, saving Hawaii’s coral reefs, holding his breath for 4 minutes, cold water therapy and much, much more. This episode also marks the very first opportunity to donate to Surf Splendor. Follow the link of SurfSplendorPodcast.com and … Continue reading "140 – Kyle Thiermann" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

We have a packed show today with a couple of guests. David opens the show with a conversation with Roger Hinds about the noserider that he shaped for David. Scott then chats with former Surfer Magazine editor Jim Kempton about the legacy of Nat Young. We then transition to Surf News where David and Scott … Continue reading "139 – Roger Hinds, Jim Kempton & Surf News, October 20, 2016" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Consummate host and spreader of aloha, Sid “The Package” Abruzzi is the subject of this week’s show. Hailing from Newport, Rhode Island, Sid helped pioneer the surf and skate movements for the North East. From playing an instrumental role in the first X-Games to helping pass legislation to save iconic surf spots, Sid has been … Continue reading "138 – Sid Abruzzi: Original Waterbrothers" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode of Surf News, David and Scott discuss David’s recent article on Beach Grit that defames Kelly Slater, dumb dolphins, the Bunker Spreckles documentary, two surfer’s 2,200 mile prone paddle journey, Kooks and Dukes, and much more! Enjoy! SURF SHOP BOX This isn’t a paid advertisement, but Surf Shop Box sent David and … Continue reading "137 – Surf Splendor, October 3, 2016" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode, David chats with filmmaker Peter Hamblin and professional surfer Frank Solomon about their new film “Let’s Be Frank”. From concept, to funding, to locations, to Frank’s back-breaking wipeout, we discuss all this seminal, and potentially genre redefining film. Enjoy! CLICK HERE TO WATCH THE FILM And here’s a few production stills from … Continue reading "136 – Let’s Be Frank: Peter Hamblin & Frank Solomon" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode David and Scott discuss Surf Park Summit 2 (which Scott emcee’d), the Surf Aid Malibu Cup, the dubious judging and spectacular upsets at the Hurley Lowers Pro, the two tragic suicides in the surf community and much more. Enjoy! SURF PARK SUMMIT 2 Scott emcee’d Surf Park Summit 2, click here to … Continue reading "135 – Surf News, September 19, 2016" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In today’s episode Tom Curren and Maurice Cole discuss the seminal board design documented in their new book ‘The Reverse V Project’. Tom also chats about his skimboard and Maurice discusses designs and constructions that he’s currently exploring. Additional commentary by Barton Lynch and Nick Carroll. This episode was recorded at The Surfing Heritage and … Continue reading "134 – Tom Curren & Maurice Cole: The Reverse V Project" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

David and Scott discuss the proliferation of new podcast’s on the market, boards their currently riding, then they chat about the 44 year old unsponsored surfer who won Tahiti on an experimental surfboard after practicing in a wave pool! (Thanks for that caption Dean Weir). Enjoy! RAIMANA TOWS IN 18 YEAR OLD GIRL AT TEAHUPO’O SURF … Continue reading "133 – Surf News, August 24, 2016" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices